Mistress arrived safely in Auckland on Tuesday afternoon after a easy passage from Vava'u Tonga. It was very special watching the sunrise above Great Barrier Island as we sailed in flat waters in a gentle breeze off the Hen & Chicken Islands. It really felt as if Mistress had arrived in her new home!
I will send one more blog update about our time in Vava'u which was fantastic, but in the meantime I wanted to share with you a few of the key numbers that have emerged from the last 5 months of sailing Mistress across the Pacific
Cheers
Mistress Crew
The Numbers
Mistress to the South Pacific 2011
1. Miles sailed Vancouver to Auckland = 8747
2. Crew aboard Mistress = 23
3. Total days of voyage = 148
4. Sailing days = 50
5. Islands off the Mistress T-shirt visited = 17
6. Mistress T-shirts distributed = 65
7. Engine Hours = 560
8. Fuel used = 2388 litres
9. Water made = 7850 litres
10. Times anchored = 55
11. Times tied to a dock = 2 (San Francisco & Apia, Samoa)
12. Boxes of Muesli /Granola eaten = 75
13. Tins of Tuna eaten = 74
14. Bottles of Beer enjoyed = 1380
15. Bottles of Rum consumed = Too many
16. Fish caught = Not enough
17. Races sailed (Vava’u Regatta) = 3
18. Races won = 3
19. Hours of fun = 3552
20. People to thank = too many to list but you all know who you are!
21. Number of memories = a lifetime!
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Monday, September 26, 2011
September 26th
Keep arrival champagne on ice a wee bit longer! 22 00 last night Westerly was repalced with 20 knot SSE, has been a hard slog since. Now closing coast by Poor Knights.
Hoping to get good run down the coast as diesel is virtually gone. Sighted land at dusk. 20 00 position S35.08, E174.58. Auckland 100 miles to go. Crew happy to see NZ!
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Hoping to get good run down the coast as diesel is virtually gone. Sighted land at dusk. 20 00 position S35.08, E174.58. Auckland 100 miles to go. Crew happy to see NZ!
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Sunday, September 25, 2011
September 25th
Noon position S32.30, E176.21. Last 24 hours 157 miles. Westerly wind finally filled in at 0400 this morning and Mistress is kicking up her heels heading for NZ! Should see Cape Brett noon tomorrow.
If wind holds plan is to run to Auckland once in lee of land with likely SW flow. ETA for Auckland after midnight Monday.
Lucky we don't make a living fishing. Have tried four different lures over four day only one bite that got off (sorry Pete!). Freezer now is officially empty so it is tinned tuna for one last time!
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
If wind holds plan is to run to Auckland once in lee of land with likely SW flow. ETA for Auckland after midnight Monday.
Lucky we don't make a living fishing. Have tried four different lures over four day only one bite that got off (sorry Pete!). Freezer now is officially empty so it is tinned tuna for one last time!
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Saturday, September 24, 2011
September 24th
Noon position S30.19, E178.00. Last 24 hours 160 miles. Easterly wind appeared at dusk last night and had a beaut night sailing under amazing stars. Wind disappeared early avo, now motoring.
At 1930 have 298 miles to Cape Brett and 375 miles to Auckland depending when wind arrives and what direction will indicate where we go to clear. Race on - wind against fuel!
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
At 1930 have 298 miles to Cape Brett and 375 miles to Auckland depending when wind arrives and what direction will indicate where we go to clear. Race on - wind against fuel!
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Friday, September 23, 2011
September 23rd
Noon position S27.2, E179.04, last 24 hours 162 miles. Motored for much of the last 24 hours. Westerly breeze filled this morning and with exception of monster squall have had a great day sailing.
Seas incredibly flat and Mistress is in her element powered up with #2 and full main. Wind looks light all the way... anyone able to heli out some diesel?
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Seas incredibly flat and Mistress is in her element powered up with #2 and full main. Wind looks light all the way... anyone able to heli out some diesel?
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Thursday, September 22, 2011
September 22nd
Noon position S25.56, W179.47. Last 24 hours 167 miles. Middle of High pressure, motoring trying to get south to get SW or S winds. Seas completely flat - will be half way tonight.
Plenty of time to sleep and eat and read so all crew happy. Hamish turns 50 on the 29th so hopefully we will be in well before ten to celebrate in NZ!
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Plenty of time to sleep and eat and read so all crew happy. Hamish turns 50 on the 29th so hopefully we will be in well before ten to celebrate in NZ!
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
September 21st
Noon position S23.30, W177.51. Last 24 hours 169 miles. Sun and very flat seas, SE wind 12 knots. Broke out thermals for the night watch... so strange to wear something other than boardshorts!
Highlight yesterday was fly by from NZ Orion Search and Rescue plane - came in very low checking us out - waved and cheered. Last night had great sunset and green flash.
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Highlight yesterday was fly by from NZ Orion Search and Rescue plane - came in very low checking us out - waved and cheered. Last night had great sunset and green flash.
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Monday, September 19, 2011
Mistress's Final Passage
Departed Vava'u, Tonga at midday ysterday after a great 3 week visit. Weather window for sail to NZ looked good so we headed south.
Noon today S21.06, W176.05, last 24 hours 190 miles. Super sail so far, currently 12 knots from SE. Expect a bit of everything but have a large High Pressure to sail/motor through.
Crew in good spirits and we are estimating 7 day pasage. Only bad news is it's going to get colder! Mistress only has another 1052 miles to slip under her keel.
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Noon today S21.06, W176.05, last 24 hours 190 miles. Super sail so far, currently 12 knots from SE. Expect a bit of everything but have a large High Pressure to sail/motor through.
Crew in good spirits and we are estimating 7 day pasage. Only bad news is it's going to get colder! Mistress only has another 1052 miles to slip under her keel.
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
A Tale of Two Islands
Yachts at Suwarrow
Tom Neale's Hut
Tom Neale Plaque
Suwarrow Shorline
Suwarrow Shark Feeding Beach
Suwarrow
Niuatoputapu Temporary Hut
Niuatoputapu Sunset
Niutoputapu Kids
Niuatoputapu Destroyed Trees
Mistress at Suwarrow
John and Rob on Suwarrow
Like the stars in the Southern night sky, the South Pacific Ocean is dotted with a myriad of islands, some seemingly forming constellations while others stand-alone and shine bright. On first impression most of these islands appear so similar, lush tropical vegetation, brilliantly clear coral waters, jagged rocks and blazing white sand. Closer inspection however, reveals that these islands can be extremely different, no more so than two islands that Mistress explored whilst sailing from Bora Bora to Vava’u.
With trade winds pushing us hard we found the first of these islands barely rising above the horizon after a four-day sail from Bora Bora. The island of Suwarrow is indeed one of these stand-alone islands, no immediate neighbor, just a lone island surrounded by hundreds of miles of empty ocean.
Part of the Cook Islands, Suwarrow is today a Cook Island Park Reserve which is an uninhabited island atoll except for two Park Wardens that reside here from May to September. Being an atoll, the island has a protected lagoon, ringed by coral reefs and small island motus. The largest of these motus, is Anchorage Island that lies inside the eastern side of the reef and forms part of the single pass that allows yachts to navigate into the safety of the lagoon.
Despite having now navigated Mistress into many coral reefed lagoons, the responsibility of safety for boat and crew always looms large in my mind when approaching such islands. After days at sea and the constant motion and fatigue that is part of ocean sailing, the lure of a tranquil, still anchorage is sometimes overwhelming. All one wants to do is get the anchor down and relax, yet the toughest part is navigating the pass into the lagoon. Is there enough water beneath our keel? Is the sunlight correct to see the coral heads? Is the current flowing in or out of the lagoon manageable? And if we get in are we going to be able to get out? Like the mountaineer that turns back painstakingly close to the summit, sometimes for the skipper and crew it is safest to sail past the enticement of a still lagoon and set a course for the next island lying over the horizon.
Fortunately for us, the conditions allowed for a safe navigation into Suwarrow and Mistress and crew were all happy to have the anchor down and resting in the lee of Anchorage Island in the company of a staggering twenty other yachts. Twenty-seven years earlier when I had visited this island, we were the only yacht on arrival and during our week-long visit only two other yachts showed up. Cruising to such beautiful parts of the world is clearly getting more popular!
So what is it that makes Suwarrow so appealing? The fact that it allows the westward bound sailor an opportunity to break up a long passage with a beautiful rest stop is high on the list. Added to this is the attraction of a fundamentally uninhabited island. It is rare to be able to visit such a beautiful island / lagoon and not find a village of local islanders forging a living from the land and the sea. Suwarrow has spectacular coral and fish life for snorkeling and diving, fish and crayfish begging to be caught, a sky filled with sea birds that nest on the outer motus and of course a lagoon filled with reef sharks…..always fascinating always unnerving…..
The history of Suwarrow also adds a special dimension to the visit. New Zealander Tom Neale lived on this island as a hermit from 1952 to 1977. The island serves as a museum to his fortitude and resourcefulness as he carved out an existence, living purely off the land and sea. His original hut still stands with all his tools, books and furnishings intact, seemingly waiting his return one-day….
Park Wardens John and James are perhaps the last reason why a visit to this remote island is so special. New Zealand born Cook Islanders, these two are true hosts to this sailor’s haven. Their knowledge of the island and its history is fascinating, their humor infectious and their willingness to lead expeditions to the remote corners of the island unique.
Our visit to Suwarow was wonderful but incredibly brief….Mistress’s schedule playing devils’ advocate once more…..Mistress wouldn’t be here without help from family and friends , but the beauty and peacefulness of the place tempted us to ignore our crew’s connecting flights at the next landfall and to simply enjoy the island for a few more days…..
A fascinating geological formation that lies running north-east / south-west in the South West Pacific is the famed Tongan Trench. This deep canyon in the ocean floor drops to a depth of over 10,000 meters. Immediately west of this trench rising out of these incredible depths is the Tongan Ridge, a long chain of shallow water and islands made up of largely volcanic activity that is still active in places. At the northern end of this ridge lies a remote Tongan island called Niuatoputapu….it is this island that Mistress arrived to explore and it is this island that proved to be so very different than that of Suwarrow.
Niuatoputapu is a volcanic formed island that today has a coral ringed reef extending around much of its western side. Once again there was a tricky pass to navigate before entering the calm protected waters of the lagoon. We had experienced a tough, wet 24 hour sail south from Western Samoa and Mistress and her crew were extremely glad to have the anchor set and the boat still with dry decks.
I had visited Niuatoputapu on my previous sail across the Pacific and memories of a beautiful lush tropical island with wonderful friendly Tongan islanders remained. The island that beckoned us this time looked from the decks of Mistress to be all of this…..but as we discovered things were very different.
Almost 600 hundred Tongans call Niuatoputapu their home. Three villages are spread along the eastern side of the island, all occupying the foreshore land adjacent to the lagoon. Rising up behind the villages is dense tropical vegetation that climbs the side of the hill that peaks at some 500 feet above sea level. These islanders live very much a subsistence lifestyle, growing taro, and other limited vegetables, harvesting fruit, raising pigs, and netting fish. Life for these people had probably changed little since I last visited until a fateful day in late August 2009…..
A Tsunami that was formed by an ocean floor earthquake off of Samoa roared across the ocean towards Niuatoputapu. The initial sign of retreating waters in the lagoon was all the warning that the islanders had prior to an 8 meter high wall of water smashing into their island and their homes…..destroying virtually everything that they valued and more tragically taking the lives of eight of their community.
Two years later as we ventured ashore the destruction was still startling. Rubbish and crushed vegetation and trees littered the foreshore. Almost no single house was standing. Instead the villagers were living in 3.6 x 2.4 meter prefab plywood boxes that had a single door and two top hung plywood hatches for windows. Constructed largely by New Zealanders and International aid agencies that had arrived after the Tsunami to help these destitute islanders, these huts were only intended to be temporary accommodation, yet two years later they were still their homes. Financial assistance was on offer to the villagers for the construction of new houses, but the proviso was that the houses had be constructed up the hillside well above the possible threat of a repeat Tsunami. Conversation with the villagers suggested that most did not want to move up the hill….hence they are still living in the temporary huts.
We spent five days anchored in the Niuatoputapu lagoon riding out strong SE winds that buffeted the island. Each day we went ashore and each day our exploration bore witness to more devastation. There were some positives, the gardens were slowly recovering, the vegetation taking a firm hold again and there was some new buildings planned and a few under construction. What was so very noticeable was the spirit of the people. While they were friendly and obliging to our questions and exploration…..they showed all signs of having had their joy of life stolen from them with no real prospect that anyone was ever going to give it back ……..
The island of Niuatoputapu was a sad situation. The contrast of our visit here as compared to Suwarro was dramatic. It was a combination of a heavy heart and mild relief when we upped anchor and pointed our bow south for Vava’u…..the jewel in the crown of the Tongan Kingdom for cruising sailors.
a
Tom Neale's Hut
Tom Neale Plaque
Suwarrow Shorline
Suwarrow Shark Feeding Beach
Suwarrow
Niuatoputapu Temporary Hut
Niuatoputapu Sunset
Niutoputapu Kids
Niuatoputapu Destroyed Trees
Mistress at Suwarrow
John and Rob on Suwarrow
Like the stars in the Southern night sky, the South Pacific Ocean is dotted with a myriad of islands, some seemingly forming constellations while others stand-alone and shine bright. On first impression most of these islands appear so similar, lush tropical vegetation, brilliantly clear coral waters, jagged rocks and blazing white sand. Closer inspection however, reveals that these islands can be extremely different, no more so than two islands that Mistress explored whilst sailing from Bora Bora to Vava’u.
With trade winds pushing us hard we found the first of these islands barely rising above the horizon after a four-day sail from Bora Bora. The island of Suwarrow is indeed one of these stand-alone islands, no immediate neighbor, just a lone island surrounded by hundreds of miles of empty ocean.
Part of the Cook Islands, Suwarrow is today a Cook Island Park Reserve which is an uninhabited island atoll except for two Park Wardens that reside here from May to September. Being an atoll, the island has a protected lagoon, ringed by coral reefs and small island motus. The largest of these motus, is Anchorage Island that lies inside the eastern side of the reef and forms part of the single pass that allows yachts to navigate into the safety of the lagoon.
Despite having now navigated Mistress into many coral reefed lagoons, the responsibility of safety for boat and crew always looms large in my mind when approaching such islands. After days at sea and the constant motion and fatigue that is part of ocean sailing, the lure of a tranquil, still anchorage is sometimes overwhelming. All one wants to do is get the anchor down and relax, yet the toughest part is navigating the pass into the lagoon. Is there enough water beneath our keel? Is the sunlight correct to see the coral heads? Is the current flowing in or out of the lagoon manageable? And if we get in are we going to be able to get out? Like the mountaineer that turns back painstakingly close to the summit, sometimes for the skipper and crew it is safest to sail past the enticement of a still lagoon and set a course for the next island lying over the horizon.
Fortunately for us, the conditions allowed for a safe navigation into Suwarrow and Mistress and crew were all happy to have the anchor down and resting in the lee of Anchorage Island in the company of a staggering twenty other yachts. Twenty-seven years earlier when I had visited this island, we were the only yacht on arrival and during our week-long visit only two other yachts showed up. Cruising to such beautiful parts of the world is clearly getting more popular!
So what is it that makes Suwarrow so appealing? The fact that it allows the westward bound sailor an opportunity to break up a long passage with a beautiful rest stop is high on the list. Added to this is the attraction of a fundamentally uninhabited island. It is rare to be able to visit such a beautiful island / lagoon and not find a village of local islanders forging a living from the land and the sea. Suwarrow has spectacular coral and fish life for snorkeling and diving, fish and crayfish begging to be caught, a sky filled with sea birds that nest on the outer motus and of course a lagoon filled with reef sharks…..always fascinating always unnerving…..
The history of Suwarrow also adds a special dimension to the visit. New Zealander Tom Neale lived on this island as a hermit from 1952 to 1977. The island serves as a museum to his fortitude and resourcefulness as he carved out an existence, living purely off the land and sea. His original hut still stands with all his tools, books and furnishings intact, seemingly waiting his return one-day….
Park Wardens John and James are perhaps the last reason why a visit to this remote island is so special. New Zealand born Cook Islanders, these two are true hosts to this sailor’s haven. Their knowledge of the island and its history is fascinating, their humor infectious and their willingness to lead expeditions to the remote corners of the island unique.
Our visit to Suwarow was wonderful but incredibly brief….Mistress’s schedule playing devils’ advocate once more…..Mistress wouldn’t be here without help from family and friends , but the beauty and peacefulness of the place tempted us to ignore our crew’s connecting flights at the next landfall and to simply enjoy the island for a few more days…..
A fascinating geological formation that lies running north-east / south-west in the South West Pacific is the famed Tongan Trench. This deep canyon in the ocean floor drops to a depth of over 10,000 meters. Immediately west of this trench rising out of these incredible depths is the Tongan Ridge, a long chain of shallow water and islands made up of largely volcanic activity that is still active in places. At the northern end of this ridge lies a remote Tongan island called Niuatoputapu….it is this island that Mistress arrived to explore and it is this island that proved to be so very different than that of Suwarrow.
Niuatoputapu is a volcanic formed island that today has a coral ringed reef extending around much of its western side. Once again there was a tricky pass to navigate before entering the calm protected waters of the lagoon. We had experienced a tough, wet 24 hour sail south from Western Samoa and Mistress and her crew were extremely glad to have the anchor set and the boat still with dry decks.
I had visited Niuatoputapu on my previous sail across the Pacific and memories of a beautiful lush tropical island with wonderful friendly Tongan islanders remained. The island that beckoned us this time looked from the decks of Mistress to be all of this…..but as we discovered things were very different.
Almost 600 hundred Tongans call Niuatoputapu their home. Three villages are spread along the eastern side of the island, all occupying the foreshore land adjacent to the lagoon. Rising up behind the villages is dense tropical vegetation that climbs the side of the hill that peaks at some 500 feet above sea level. These islanders live very much a subsistence lifestyle, growing taro, and other limited vegetables, harvesting fruit, raising pigs, and netting fish. Life for these people had probably changed little since I last visited until a fateful day in late August 2009…..
A Tsunami that was formed by an ocean floor earthquake off of Samoa roared across the ocean towards Niuatoputapu. The initial sign of retreating waters in the lagoon was all the warning that the islanders had prior to an 8 meter high wall of water smashing into their island and their homes…..destroying virtually everything that they valued and more tragically taking the lives of eight of their community.
Two years later as we ventured ashore the destruction was still startling. Rubbish and crushed vegetation and trees littered the foreshore. Almost no single house was standing. Instead the villagers were living in 3.6 x 2.4 meter prefab plywood boxes that had a single door and two top hung plywood hatches for windows. Constructed largely by New Zealanders and International aid agencies that had arrived after the Tsunami to help these destitute islanders, these huts were only intended to be temporary accommodation, yet two years later they were still their homes. Financial assistance was on offer to the villagers for the construction of new houses, but the proviso was that the houses had be constructed up the hillside well above the possible threat of a repeat Tsunami. Conversation with the villagers suggested that most did not want to move up the hill….hence they are still living in the temporary huts.
We spent five days anchored in the Niuatoputapu lagoon riding out strong SE winds that buffeted the island. Each day we went ashore and each day our exploration bore witness to more devastation. There were some positives, the gardens were slowly recovering, the vegetation taking a firm hold again and there was some new buildings planned and a few under construction. What was so very noticeable was the spirit of the people. While they were friendly and obliging to our questions and exploration…..they showed all signs of having had their joy of life stolen from them with no real prospect that anyone was ever going to give it back ……..
The island of Niuatoputapu was a sad situation. The contrast of our visit here as compared to Suwarro was dramatic. It was a combination of a heavy heart and mild relief when we upped anchor and pointed our bow south for Vava’u…..the jewel in the crown of the Tongan Kingdom for cruising sailors.
a
Monday, August 15, 2011
‘Aiorana’ - Society Islands……
Sailing to Raiatea
Top of Bora Bora
Stingrays at Bora Bora
Lloyd Reef Rash
Lloyd, Susie and Charlie
Huahine Viewtop
Huahine Right
Huahine Left Hander
Huahine Drink Stop
Fish Hut on Raiatea
Cook Bay Moorea
Bora Bora from Tahaa
Mistress’s month long cruise amongst the famous Society Islands was a completely different gear-shift for both boat and crew. Gone were the solitary night watches , constant tweaking of sails, eating and sleeping while braced against the roll of the boat and of course regular soakings by warm salty waves. In it’s place were unbroken night’s sleep on secure anchor towering under massive volcanic mountain peaks, barbequed meals with nary a spilled glass and the laughter and company of newly joined friends and crew.
The Society Islands are often what comes to mind when one mentions the allure and romance of the South Pacific…Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora….spectacular reef ringed islands with the heady mix of Polynesian beauty and French flair. For the Mistress crew these islands offered a chance to get off the boat, explore the islands and to get to know the locals.
Daily we embarked on land based adventures and explorations, whether it be climbing to the top of Bora Bora or getting a first hand lesson on how to tie Pareos while drinking a cool Hinano beer….the freedom of being away from the confines of the boat and the other crew was wonderful for all, but perhaps no better highlighted by the antics of Lloyd and Charlie’s land (and occasional water based) adventures!
Watching these lads disappear for hours (and on one instance for a few days) seeking new sights, sounds and friends, was wonderful, albeit I must admit it was sometimes with envy as I observed their natural ease at breaking down the barriers…. both real and imagined….
Having been through these same islands 27 years earlier at a similar age I could not help but ask myself had I too been as bold and inventive as these two lads? Memories often play tricks on us, we tend to easily remember the good and the not so good; filtering out the middle ground events and occasions that with time slip from our conscious grasp. If Lloyd and Charlie can retain and hang on to these often forgotten aspects of life, then they will be the richer….as they clearly had some fantastic times amongst these beautiful islands and people.
From the moment the lads stepped ashore they were always in direct contact with the locals. On their first day they learned to roll their ‘r’s’ and to wrap their tongues around the Tahitian greeting for good day….’Aiorana’ and the subsequent thank you ‘Mauruuruu’…..the simple act of mastering these two words cast them in a completely different light than so many other visitors who often unknowingly offend by saying bonjour and merci.
If successfully interacting with the local people were measured by the amount of fresh fruit and vegetables one was graciously given, then by this measure Charlie and Lloyd were well and truly embraced. It was almost rare for them not to return to the boat after one of their daily excursions with some new treasure; a stalk of bananas, mangos, avocados, grapefruit and even fresh vanilla beans.
Young kids seemed to flock to these two. Walking through local villages bare footed and shirtless…muscled and tanned was always sure to attract attention. They would often stop and chat with the local kids greeting with a casual locking of hands and verbal hello. Conversation was inevitably focused on surfing, best breaks and impending swell arrivals. They were sometimes armed with a block or two of surf wax to give these kids, a simple gesture that scored huge points when surfing on the ‘local patch’. On the surf break itself producing the waterproof video camera was a winner with the young surfers, all giving their email address to the lads for some sought after footage of their surfing moves….while the older heads made it very clear that no pictures of ‘their’ break was to be published online……
In Raiatea on the eve of Bastille Day, Charlie and Lloyd with Susie in tow, went ashore well before sunset for a much needed night away from the ‘old watch’ crew. It was near 0400 the next morning when the sound of the dinghy’s outboard was heard approaching the boat. Clearly the kids had a good time, however, it was not until they surfaced the next afternoon that we learned that they had spent the night celebrating with one of the head chiefs from island who advised that they were to use his name and reference if they were to encounter any future trouble on the island’s surf breaks. It obviously helps to have friends in high places!
The Super Yacht sect was another aspect of Lloyd and Charlie’s social life while amongst these islands. These multimillion-dollar toys of the super rich are crewed by young people who like our lads were always keen to play and party and so they did. Everything seemed to be ‘super-sized’, the lads enjoyed super fast broadband aboard these boats, super cold air conditioning running 24/7, super fast water toys and a crew willing to share and play, super stocked beer fridges and on more than one occasion super efficient ice making machines that gratefully provided the rest of the crew back on Mistress with cold cubes for the evening sundowners!
The older crew hands also made the most of time ashore while exploring the islands. Long walks, scooter hire, bike rides, and snorkeling with stingrays were only some of the activities. Often while riding around the islands we made the obligatory pit stop at some local ‘snack shack’ or boutique hotel with beach side bar and enjoyed a refreshing drink. Over the month we visited Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora. Each of these islands is different and distinct is so many ways. The striking physical beauty of Bora Bora cannot be ignored, but then this has to be balanced with the intrusion on this landscape by the myriad of 5 star over the water type hotels with their jet skiing sun tanning guests…..based on our exploration without question our favorite of these islands had to be Huahine. This island has very little mainstream tourism, instead just lovely friendly locals getting on with life amongst their lush mountains, beautiful beaches and stunning coral reefs that lock out the ravages of pounding seas while creating an amazing sea life pool within.
The Society Islands also represented a month of crew changes. When I departed Vancouver I always knew the voyage to New Zealand could not be possible without the capable assistance of many friends and family……remember this is what Mistress is all about! However I surprised myself at how hard it was to say goodbye to those who had sailed so far and so willingly aboard Mistress…..so thank you guys….Millsy, Warren, Charlie and Lloyd you were the very best of crew. Of course I cannot forget to thank those additional crew that joined us for varying periods of time while in French Polynesia…..all of you helped enrich the adventure……so thank you Lesley, Shawn, Liz, Doug, Susie and Elise!
And so the Mistress Voyages continue…..with new crew; Pete, Paul, Hans and Catrina aboard the far horizon beckons and Mistress is itching to sail once more…..
Top of Bora Bora
Stingrays at Bora Bora
Lloyd Reef Rash
Lloyd, Susie and Charlie
Huahine Viewtop
Huahine Right
Huahine Left Hander
Huahine Drink Stop
Fish Hut on Raiatea
Cook Bay Moorea
Bora Bora from Tahaa
Mistress’s month long cruise amongst the famous Society Islands was a completely different gear-shift for both boat and crew. Gone were the solitary night watches , constant tweaking of sails, eating and sleeping while braced against the roll of the boat and of course regular soakings by warm salty waves. In it’s place were unbroken night’s sleep on secure anchor towering under massive volcanic mountain peaks, barbequed meals with nary a spilled glass and the laughter and company of newly joined friends and crew.
The Society Islands are often what comes to mind when one mentions the allure and romance of the South Pacific…Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora….spectacular reef ringed islands with the heady mix of Polynesian beauty and French flair. For the Mistress crew these islands offered a chance to get off the boat, explore the islands and to get to know the locals.
Daily we embarked on land based adventures and explorations, whether it be climbing to the top of Bora Bora or getting a first hand lesson on how to tie Pareos while drinking a cool Hinano beer….the freedom of being away from the confines of the boat and the other crew was wonderful for all, but perhaps no better highlighted by the antics of Lloyd and Charlie’s land (and occasional water based) adventures!
Watching these lads disappear for hours (and on one instance for a few days) seeking new sights, sounds and friends, was wonderful, albeit I must admit it was sometimes with envy as I observed their natural ease at breaking down the barriers…. both real and imagined….
Having been through these same islands 27 years earlier at a similar age I could not help but ask myself had I too been as bold and inventive as these two lads? Memories often play tricks on us, we tend to easily remember the good and the not so good; filtering out the middle ground events and occasions that with time slip from our conscious grasp. If Lloyd and Charlie can retain and hang on to these often forgotten aspects of life, then they will be the richer….as they clearly had some fantastic times amongst these beautiful islands and people.
From the moment the lads stepped ashore they were always in direct contact with the locals. On their first day they learned to roll their ‘r’s’ and to wrap their tongues around the Tahitian greeting for good day….’Aiorana’ and the subsequent thank you ‘Mauruuruu’…..the simple act of mastering these two words cast them in a completely different light than so many other visitors who often unknowingly offend by saying bonjour and merci.
If successfully interacting with the local people were measured by the amount of fresh fruit and vegetables one was graciously given, then by this measure Charlie and Lloyd were well and truly embraced. It was almost rare for them not to return to the boat after one of their daily excursions with some new treasure; a stalk of bananas, mangos, avocados, grapefruit and even fresh vanilla beans.
Young kids seemed to flock to these two. Walking through local villages bare footed and shirtless…muscled and tanned was always sure to attract attention. They would often stop and chat with the local kids greeting with a casual locking of hands and verbal hello. Conversation was inevitably focused on surfing, best breaks and impending swell arrivals. They were sometimes armed with a block or two of surf wax to give these kids, a simple gesture that scored huge points when surfing on the ‘local patch’. On the surf break itself producing the waterproof video camera was a winner with the young surfers, all giving their email address to the lads for some sought after footage of their surfing moves….while the older heads made it very clear that no pictures of ‘their’ break was to be published online……
In Raiatea on the eve of Bastille Day, Charlie and Lloyd with Susie in tow, went ashore well before sunset for a much needed night away from the ‘old watch’ crew. It was near 0400 the next morning when the sound of the dinghy’s outboard was heard approaching the boat. Clearly the kids had a good time, however, it was not until they surfaced the next afternoon that we learned that they had spent the night celebrating with one of the head chiefs from island who advised that they were to use his name and reference if they were to encounter any future trouble on the island’s surf breaks. It obviously helps to have friends in high places!
The Super Yacht sect was another aspect of Lloyd and Charlie’s social life while amongst these islands. These multimillion-dollar toys of the super rich are crewed by young people who like our lads were always keen to play and party and so they did. Everything seemed to be ‘super-sized’, the lads enjoyed super fast broadband aboard these boats, super cold air conditioning running 24/7, super fast water toys and a crew willing to share and play, super stocked beer fridges and on more than one occasion super efficient ice making machines that gratefully provided the rest of the crew back on Mistress with cold cubes for the evening sundowners!
The older crew hands also made the most of time ashore while exploring the islands. Long walks, scooter hire, bike rides, and snorkeling with stingrays were only some of the activities. Often while riding around the islands we made the obligatory pit stop at some local ‘snack shack’ or boutique hotel with beach side bar and enjoyed a refreshing drink. Over the month we visited Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora. Each of these islands is different and distinct is so many ways. The striking physical beauty of Bora Bora cannot be ignored, but then this has to be balanced with the intrusion on this landscape by the myriad of 5 star over the water type hotels with their jet skiing sun tanning guests…..based on our exploration without question our favorite of these islands had to be Huahine. This island has very little mainstream tourism, instead just lovely friendly locals getting on with life amongst their lush mountains, beautiful beaches and stunning coral reefs that lock out the ravages of pounding seas while creating an amazing sea life pool within.
The Society Islands also represented a month of crew changes. When I departed Vancouver I always knew the voyage to New Zealand could not be possible without the capable assistance of many friends and family……remember this is what Mistress is all about! However I surprised myself at how hard it was to say goodbye to those who had sailed so far and so willingly aboard Mistress…..so thank you guys….Millsy, Warren, Charlie and Lloyd you were the very best of crew. Of course I cannot forget to thank those additional crew that joined us for varying periods of time while in French Polynesia…..all of you helped enrich the adventure……so thank you Lesley, Shawn, Liz, Doug, Susie and Elise!
And so the Mistress Voyages continue…..with new crew; Pete, Paul, Hans and Catrina aboard the far horizon beckons and Mistress is itching to sail once more…..
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Quiet day on board
Noon position S13.44, W168.22. Last 24 hours 171 miles. Wind eased through the day. Running with headsail poled out and full main. Caught a good size Skipjack - tagged and released.
Quiet day otherwise, crew caught up on sleep, reading and writing. Hans made a beaut Paella for dinner! We are looking forward to getting to Apia tomorrow.
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Quiet day otherwise, crew caught up on sleep, reading and writing. Hans made a beaut Paella for dinner! We are looking forward to getting to Apia tomorrow.
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Heading to Apia
Should arrive at Apia, Samoa Thursday avo... looking forward to a feed at the infamous Aggie Grey's Hotel. The war time proprietor was a legend in the South Pacific.
Also on Apia 'To Do' List is to hike to Robert Louis Stevenson's grave atop hill overlooking town. Noon position S13.39, W 165.29, 24 hours since departing - approx 180 miles.
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Also on Apia 'To Do' List is to hike to Robert Louis Stevenson's grave atop hill overlooking town. Noon position S13.39, W 165.29, 24 hours since departing - approx 180 miles.
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Suwarrow, Cook Islands
Arrived first light yesterday to this magic atoll. Last here 27 years ago - little has changed except only yacht last time - now 20 other boats!
We have explored the island, swum in lagoon, fished the pass and caught beaut tuna at dawn this morning. Best entertainment was feeding fish remains to sharks
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
We have explored the island, swum in lagoon, fished the pass and caught beaut tuna at dawn this morning. Best entertainment was feeding fish remains to sharks
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Stars burning through sky
Noon position S13.54, W160.45. Last 24 hour 171 miles. Great sailing last night, two sail reach at 8 knots under 1/2 moon and awesome stars. Lots of stars burning through sky.
Wind died early this avo and we have been motoring since hot hot day and very little shade on deck. Strange to be heading North of Suvorov, seems like we're sailing away from NZ!
Crew are great... already Hans is helping sort out with electrical issues and Paul is number 1 diesel engineer... now if we can just get Pete to catch us a fish!
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Wind died early this avo and we have been motoring since hot hot day and very little shade on deck. Strange to be heading North of Suvorov, seems like we're sailing away from NZ!
Crew are great... already Hans is helping sort out with electrical issues and Paul is number 1 diesel engineer... now if we can just get Pete to catch us a fish!
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Friday, August 5, 2011
Kite up and no fish
Noon position S14.39 W 157.55 - last 24 hours 187m, 309 miles to Suvorov. Island is part of Cook's and except for Park Warden is uninhabited. NZ'er Tom Neale lived here as a hermit for many years.
Weather today very different to yesterday's sunshine and clear skies. We have wind out of NW at average 20 knots with some squals. Making great speed but a bit wetter on deck.
No fish yet... had a couple strikes but with kite up yesterday too hard to slow down and lost them. Sounds like an excuse to me! Could be tinned tuna tonight.
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Weather today very different to yesterday's sunshine and clear skies. We have wind out of NW at average 20 knots with some squals. Making great speed but a bit wetter on deck.
No fish yet... had a couple strikes but with kite up yesterday too hard to slow down and lost them. Sounds like an excuse to me! Could be tinned tuna tonight.
Cheers,
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Blue Water Again
Great to be back at sea again after a month with the hook down. Currently running due west with Spinaker under sunny cloudless trade wind sky.
New crew settled in well and are learning how to tickle Mistress to get her to perform. Pete drew short straw last night and had first up cooking - makes it my turn tonight.
Noon position S15.37, W 154.55 - 24 hour run 174m. Distance to Suwarrow 496 miles - if wind holds should be there in 3 days. Lots of other yachts around us, but we are passing them all!
MC
New crew settled in well and are learning how to tickle Mistress to get her to perform. Pete drew short straw last night and had first up cooking - makes it my turn tonight.
Noon position S15.37, W 154.55 - 24 hour run 174m. Distance to Suwarrow 496 miles - if wind holds should be there in 3 days. Lots of other yachts around us, but we are passing them all!
MC
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Tuamotus - Black Sharks…..Black Pearls….
Sharks Everywhere
Shark Fakarava
Pet Shark
Pearl Farm Apataki
Motu Rua Vahine Apataki
Motu in Apatki
lloyd & Charlie in Fakarava
Fakarava Reef Fish
Coral Fakarava
Coral Everywhere
Black Pearls
Time seems to be the enemy when one is sailing amongst the beauty and constant changing world of the South Pacific. Those following this blog must have thought we slipped below the surface never to be heard from again…….Well almost true, at least the bit about spending time below the surface!
The Tuamotu Islands are an amazing chain of exclusively coral atolls lying between the Marquesas and the Society Islands. 76 of these atolls exist, many inaccessible by deep draft sailboats due to nonexistent or very shallow and dangerous passes into the tranquility of their inner lagoons. These coral ringed lagoons rise out of the deepest of ocean depths to create a natural aquarium of unbelievably beauty….simply waiting to be explored!
Once again our sailing itinerary had been dictated by Lloyd and Charlie’s never ending quest for the ‘perfect’ wave! Given our time and ability to get in and out of the lagoons, we planned to visit Fakarava and Apataki atolls. In fact we did spend one night at an additional atoll (Toau) due to not having enough daylight to get inside Apataki. Of course as I am learning, surfing demands that a number of natural variables align in order to create surf able waves. For both Farkarava and Apataki, we entered the respective lagoons via the South West pass in anticipation of a Southerly swell generating some action. Alas….it was not to be….same old story, ‘should have been here last week…..’ The lads gave it a go, but it was probably more a case of being able to say ‘been there done that’ rather than getting any memorable surfing.
With surfing off the agenda we turned our attention to the world below the surface. Fakarava is reputedly one of the premier diving spots in the world. The atoll passes consist of stunning vertical walls of brilliantly coloured coral, teeming with every variety of fish life that is swept with the current’s ebb and flow into awaiting schools of Black Tipped reef sharks. Life can be a funny thing at times. If someone had said to Lesley that less than an hour after entering the water for a snorkel through the reef pass, she would be relatively blasé about reef sharks swimming within meters of her she would have seriously doubted their sanity……and yet that is exactly what happened! While none of us would have ever admitted that we were relaxed…..we all were mesmerized by these sleek, stealth looking creatures of the sea. The sharks were in constant motion…. like an Exocet seeking it’s next target they would cruise by us…..armed but unnaturally not seemingly dangerous…….
Fakarava’s lagoon is 45 miles long and with a bit of care one is able to transit the length of the lagoon to the northern town of Ratoava. Sitting astride the lower spreaders with the sunlight aft of the beam, allows one to easily see the coral heads that rise up from the depths of the lagoon. Enroute, we anchored a night in the shelter of a windward motu marveling at the way the natural light plays with the lagoon waters. The blue spectrum alone leaves one breathless as colour graduates from black/blue emerging out of the deepest water, to the aqua/blue brilliance as light dances across white sand bottoms, finally turning turquoise/blue in the shallows of coral covered reefs.
We spent a few days at the northern end of Fakarava, the lads (Lloyd, Charlie and Millsy) all went deep diving in the northern pass with their new best friends….. Fakarava sharks…..while Warren & Lesley walked, biked and relaxed amongst the solitude of coral beaches and coconut palms. Prior to departing Fakarava, Mistress’s female crewmembers doubled in number as Shawn arrived from Vancouver to escape the ever-wet Vancouver summer weather.
Many of the Tuamotu Islands are uninhabited, the remoteness and physical challenges that these atolls present make it difficult or impossible to sustain a living for many of these lovely Polynesian people. While these coral ringed lagoons offer solitude and adventure tourism, it is virtually nonexistent when compared to the world famous resorts of Moorea and Bora Bora that lie just over the horizon….
What the Tuamotus do have, that the rest of the world does not, is the ability to cultivate and harvest one of the most exotic and beautiful of natural jewels……the Black Pearl….
Sailing across an ocean and navigating our way into the sanctuary of these remote coral lagoons, only added to the mystique that accompanies the process of cultivation and harvesting of these tiny pearlescence rich spheres. Apataki is one of the atolls with a thriving pearl farm industry. We anchored off Motu Totoro, on the eastern side of the lagoon where Pauline and Alfred Assam welcome sailors onto their island. In the shade of their waterside thatched fare’, with a thirst quenching Rum & Coke in hand, they patiently answered our questions and showed us how the time consuming and skilled operation of cultivating black pearls occurs. It was a fascinating afternoon even more so for the female contingent of our crew who where seemingly determined to ‘buy from the source!’……time was clearly no concern as our ladies painstakingly picked their way through hundreds of different grades and size pearls to get the their individual collection together. Who would have thought that it would be possible to go shopping for ‘High Street’ pearls in a remote lagoon in the middle of the South Pacific? Perhaps the most ironic aspect of this afternoon was that when it was time to pay a wireless satellite accessed terminal miraculously appeared and happily accepted the girls MasterCard…..don’t leave home without it!
While part of the Mistress crew could happily have spent days continuing to explore the Tuamotu atolls, the young lads were anxious to see the bright lights of Papeete and the fame of the Teahupoo surf break. Not forgetting of course Mistress had a schedule to keep….crew changes to make……so once again we headed out to sea and let Mistress kick up her heels!
Shark Fakarava
Pet Shark
Pearl Farm Apataki
Motu Rua Vahine Apataki
Motu in Apatki
lloyd & Charlie in Fakarava
Fakarava Reef Fish
Coral Fakarava
Coral Everywhere
Black Pearls
Time seems to be the enemy when one is sailing amongst the beauty and constant changing world of the South Pacific. Those following this blog must have thought we slipped below the surface never to be heard from again…….Well almost true, at least the bit about spending time below the surface!
The Tuamotu Islands are an amazing chain of exclusively coral atolls lying between the Marquesas and the Society Islands. 76 of these atolls exist, many inaccessible by deep draft sailboats due to nonexistent or very shallow and dangerous passes into the tranquility of their inner lagoons. These coral ringed lagoons rise out of the deepest of ocean depths to create a natural aquarium of unbelievably beauty….simply waiting to be explored!
Once again our sailing itinerary had been dictated by Lloyd and Charlie’s never ending quest for the ‘perfect’ wave! Given our time and ability to get in and out of the lagoons, we planned to visit Fakarava and Apataki atolls. In fact we did spend one night at an additional atoll (Toau) due to not having enough daylight to get inside Apataki. Of course as I am learning, surfing demands that a number of natural variables align in order to create surf able waves. For both Farkarava and Apataki, we entered the respective lagoons via the South West pass in anticipation of a Southerly swell generating some action. Alas….it was not to be….same old story, ‘should have been here last week…..’ The lads gave it a go, but it was probably more a case of being able to say ‘been there done that’ rather than getting any memorable surfing.
With surfing off the agenda we turned our attention to the world below the surface. Fakarava is reputedly one of the premier diving spots in the world. The atoll passes consist of stunning vertical walls of brilliantly coloured coral, teeming with every variety of fish life that is swept with the current’s ebb and flow into awaiting schools of Black Tipped reef sharks. Life can be a funny thing at times. If someone had said to Lesley that less than an hour after entering the water for a snorkel through the reef pass, she would be relatively blasé about reef sharks swimming within meters of her she would have seriously doubted their sanity……and yet that is exactly what happened! While none of us would have ever admitted that we were relaxed…..we all were mesmerized by these sleek, stealth looking creatures of the sea. The sharks were in constant motion…. like an Exocet seeking it’s next target they would cruise by us…..armed but unnaturally not seemingly dangerous…….
Fakarava’s lagoon is 45 miles long and with a bit of care one is able to transit the length of the lagoon to the northern town of Ratoava. Sitting astride the lower spreaders with the sunlight aft of the beam, allows one to easily see the coral heads that rise up from the depths of the lagoon. Enroute, we anchored a night in the shelter of a windward motu marveling at the way the natural light plays with the lagoon waters. The blue spectrum alone leaves one breathless as colour graduates from black/blue emerging out of the deepest water, to the aqua/blue brilliance as light dances across white sand bottoms, finally turning turquoise/blue in the shallows of coral covered reefs.
We spent a few days at the northern end of Fakarava, the lads (Lloyd, Charlie and Millsy) all went deep diving in the northern pass with their new best friends….. Fakarava sharks…..while Warren & Lesley walked, biked and relaxed amongst the solitude of coral beaches and coconut palms. Prior to departing Fakarava, Mistress’s female crewmembers doubled in number as Shawn arrived from Vancouver to escape the ever-wet Vancouver summer weather.
Many of the Tuamotu Islands are uninhabited, the remoteness and physical challenges that these atolls present make it difficult or impossible to sustain a living for many of these lovely Polynesian people. While these coral ringed lagoons offer solitude and adventure tourism, it is virtually nonexistent when compared to the world famous resorts of Moorea and Bora Bora that lie just over the horizon….
What the Tuamotus do have, that the rest of the world does not, is the ability to cultivate and harvest one of the most exotic and beautiful of natural jewels……the Black Pearl….
Sailing across an ocean and navigating our way into the sanctuary of these remote coral lagoons, only added to the mystique that accompanies the process of cultivation and harvesting of these tiny pearlescence rich spheres. Apataki is one of the atolls with a thriving pearl farm industry. We anchored off Motu Totoro, on the eastern side of the lagoon where Pauline and Alfred Assam welcome sailors onto their island. In the shade of their waterside thatched fare’, with a thirst quenching Rum & Coke in hand, they patiently answered our questions and showed us how the time consuming and skilled operation of cultivating black pearls occurs. It was a fascinating afternoon even more so for the female contingent of our crew who where seemingly determined to ‘buy from the source!’……time was clearly no concern as our ladies painstakingly picked their way through hundreds of different grades and size pearls to get the their individual collection together. Who would have thought that it would be possible to go shopping for ‘High Street’ pearls in a remote lagoon in the middle of the South Pacific? Perhaps the most ironic aspect of this afternoon was that when it was time to pay a wireless satellite accessed terminal miraculously appeared and happily accepted the girls MasterCard…..don’t leave home without it!
While part of the Mistress crew could happily have spent days continuing to explore the Tuamotu atolls, the young lads were anxious to see the bright lights of Papeete and the fame of the Teahupoo surf break. Not forgetting of course Mistress had a schedule to keep….crew changes to make……so once again we headed out to sea and let Mistress kick up her heels!
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Goodbye Marquesas
Weaving Headpiece - Hapatoni
Warren & Lesley in Hapatoni
Spires over Hakahetau Bay
Mistress Anchored at Hana Tefau
MC (& green bananas) leaving Ua Pou
Landfall at Ua Pou
Hapatoni Warrior
Hapatoni Kids
Hapatoni Ancient Pathway
Our final few days in the Marquesas provided us with some interesting insights into both the modern and ancient lives of these lovely people.
A night of straining on the anchor chain in Tahuata’s Hana Moe Noa Bay with wind gusts of up to 30 knots barreling down the island’s leeward slopes, made it a simple decision to bail out after daylight and work our way south down the coast. We managed to find shelter under the towering cliffs of Hana Tefau anchoring only 100 metres from the rock-strewn shore. The bay was home to a pod of incredibly small dolphins who despite joining in the water, showed little interest in our approach.
The bay adjoining to the south is called Hapatoni, a small sweeping rocky bay that is fringed by an ancient Marquesan village whose current 100 inhabitants live amongst the remnants and ruins of impressive volcanic stonework - paths, walls and foundations, all constructed by their forefathers. With drizzling rain as our companion we meandered along an ancient pathway, curious by its design, wide enough for modern cars and yet made at a time when bare feet were the only transport. Stonewalls bordering the pathway doubled as both seawall and retaining walls for the village homes. Huge gnarly trees hundreds of years old, flanked the pathway while younger trees sprouted between them, seemingly adolescents amongst their respected elders. An impressive stone walled church built to withstand natures strongest hurricane, reinforced the missionary influence amongst these islands and the ongoing role the Church plays in the residents daily lives. The village was quiet with residents busy inside their homes, weaving and carving, traditions of their culture past, now readying to trade for much needed cash with passengers from the ‘Aranui’, the coastal freighter/passenger ship that ply’s these islands. As we made our way back to our anchored dinghy young children emerged running rings around us in the mud, laughing at our attempts at French while eager to impress us with their limited English. Our glimpse through this window of village life, both current and past, served as a gentle reminder of how very different our home and work lives are in comparison. While we sail away to explore new wonders and islands eventually returning to the comfort and safety of our homes, they continue to do exactly what they have done for hundreds of years, live in balance with the land and the sea at the mercy of the whims of nature be it bountiful or destructive.
With the atolls of the Tuamotus beckoning us over the southwest horizon, we decided to make the island of Ua Pou our last Marquesan stop. First light after an overnight sail brought the magnificent soaring spires of the island into view. These gravity defying vertical basaltic structures must be one of the most striking geological formations on the planet. Regrettably not once during our brief visit did we manage to see all of the spires cloud free; however, the enticement of such a view keeps one constantly gazing skyward towards the shrouded peaks.
We dropped anchored in the protection of Hakahetau Bay on the northwest corner of the island in the company of a few other yachts. A visit by two waterborne Gendarmes resulted in the necessity for us to complete some additional paperwork and a visit to their offices at Hakahau Bay, a few miles around the northern coast. After spending a couple of hours on another unsuccessful expedition looking for a local waterfall we headed north to Hakahau, the capital of the island.
Our visit in Hakahau was incredibly brief, but long enough to witness a very special day. Leaving Millsy and Lloyd aboard on anchor watch, Charlie paddled off to he head of the bay to join the local lads for a surf, while Warren, Lesley and I rowed towards a grey sandy beach only 100 meters from Mistress’s stern. Let me try and paint the picture that greeted us.
Our ears were filled with the sound of children’s laughter as they launched seaward from the seemingly dizzy heights of the concrete pier. A young family relaxing in the sand, enjoying the shade of a flowering vibrant red hibiscus, waved and smiled at our clumsy ‘bonjour’. We clambered over the seawall onto the beachside road, completely devoid of any moving vehicle or person. As we ambled along the waterfront we gazed down into the local canoe club, a thatched pole structure, built upon the sand. Voices singing in unison to the strum of guitars floated from the shade of the thatch. Parents were relaxing around tables enjoying their favorite Hinano while the kids played in the water. Conscious of not intruding we didn’t linger, but in someway were envious of their seemingly carefree afternoon. A mattress lying in the back of a Toyota Hilux parked on the sand served as a portable cushion for another family who also smiled at our hello. Looking along the bay we could see a dozen local surfers doing what surfers do best - happily waiting for the next perfect wave. Our path took us left away from the beach and we passed a low-lying house virtually hidden by the shade of a fragrant flowering tropical garden. The mouthwatering smell of their barbeque and laughter of loving family and friends drifted our way……….
And so it carried on. Everywhere we looked we were seemingly greeted with the very same sight, that of family and friends doing what they should be doing, simply relaxing and enjoying each other and the day. And what day was it? Not a religious holiday, nor a national holiday…..no it was a simply a day that occurs on a regular basis, in fact it is so popular it happens once a week and yet once again in our fast moving commercial world we seem to forget all about this day and why it should be so special….…it was of course Sunday.
Warren & Lesley in Hapatoni
Spires over Hakahetau Bay
Mistress Anchored at Hana Tefau
MC (& green bananas) leaving Ua Pou
Landfall at Ua Pou
Hapatoni Warrior
Hapatoni Kids
Hapatoni Ancient Pathway
Our final few days in the Marquesas provided us with some interesting insights into both the modern and ancient lives of these lovely people.
A night of straining on the anchor chain in Tahuata’s Hana Moe Noa Bay with wind gusts of up to 30 knots barreling down the island’s leeward slopes, made it a simple decision to bail out after daylight and work our way south down the coast. We managed to find shelter under the towering cliffs of Hana Tefau anchoring only 100 metres from the rock-strewn shore. The bay was home to a pod of incredibly small dolphins who despite joining in the water, showed little interest in our approach.
The bay adjoining to the south is called Hapatoni, a small sweeping rocky bay that is fringed by an ancient Marquesan village whose current 100 inhabitants live amongst the remnants and ruins of impressive volcanic stonework - paths, walls and foundations, all constructed by their forefathers. With drizzling rain as our companion we meandered along an ancient pathway, curious by its design, wide enough for modern cars and yet made at a time when bare feet were the only transport. Stonewalls bordering the pathway doubled as both seawall and retaining walls for the village homes. Huge gnarly trees hundreds of years old, flanked the pathway while younger trees sprouted between them, seemingly adolescents amongst their respected elders. An impressive stone walled church built to withstand natures strongest hurricane, reinforced the missionary influence amongst these islands and the ongoing role the Church plays in the residents daily lives. The village was quiet with residents busy inside their homes, weaving and carving, traditions of their culture past, now readying to trade for much needed cash with passengers from the ‘Aranui’, the coastal freighter/passenger ship that ply’s these islands. As we made our way back to our anchored dinghy young children emerged running rings around us in the mud, laughing at our attempts at French while eager to impress us with their limited English. Our glimpse through this window of village life, both current and past, served as a gentle reminder of how very different our home and work lives are in comparison. While we sail away to explore new wonders and islands eventually returning to the comfort and safety of our homes, they continue to do exactly what they have done for hundreds of years, live in balance with the land and the sea at the mercy of the whims of nature be it bountiful or destructive.
With the atolls of the Tuamotus beckoning us over the southwest horizon, we decided to make the island of Ua Pou our last Marquesan stop. First light after an overnight sail brought the magnificent soaring spires of the island into view. These gravity defying vertical basaltic structures must be one of the most striking geological formations on the planet. Regrettably not once during our brief visit did we manage to see all of the spires cloud free; however, the enticement of such a view keeps one constantly gazing skyward towards the shrouded peaks.
We dropped anchored in the protection of Hakahetau Bay on the northwest corner of the island in the company of a few other yachts. A visit by two waterborne Gendarmes resulted in the necessity for us to complete some additional paperwork and a visit to their offices at Hakahau Bay, a few miles around the northern coast. After spending a couple of hours on another unsuccessful expedition looking for a local waterfall we headed north to Hakahau, the capital of the island.
Our visit in Hakahau was incredibly brief, but long enough to witness a very special day. Leaving Millsy and Lloyd aboard on anchor watch, Charlie paddled off to he head of the bay to join the local lads for a surf, while Warren, Lesley and I rowed towards a grey sandy beach only 100 meters from Mistress’s stern. Let me try and paint the picture that greeted us.
Our ears were filled with the sound of children’s laughter as they launched seaward from the seemingly dizzy heights of the concrete pier. A young family relaxing in the sand, enjoying the shade of a flowering vibrant red hibiscus, waved and smiled at our clumsy ‘bonjour’. We clambered over the seawall onto the beachside road, completely devoid of any moving vehicle or person. As we ambled along the waterfront we gazed down into the local canoe club, a thatched pole structure, built upon the sand. Voices singing in unison to the strum of guitars floated from the shade of the thatch. Parents were relaxing around tables enjoying their favorite Hinano while the kids played in the water. Conscious of not intruding we didn’t linger, but in someway were envious of their seemingly carefree afternoon. A mattress lying in the back of a Toyota Hilux parked on the sand served as a portable cushion for another family who also smiled at our hello. Looking along the bay we could see a dozen local surfers doing what surfers do best - happily waiting for the next perfect wave. Our path took us left away from the beach and we passed a low-lying house virtually hidden by the shade of a fragrant flowering tropical garden. The mouthwatering smell of their barbeque and laughter of loving family and friends drifted our way……….
And so it carried on. Everywhere we looked we were seemingly greeted with the very same sight, that of family and friends doing what they should be doing, simply relaxing and enjoying each other and the day. And what day was it? Not a religious holiday, nor a national holiday…..no it was a simply a day that occurs on a regular basis, in fact it is so popular it happens once a week and yet once again in our fast moving commercial world we seem to forget all about this day and why it should be so special….…it was of course Sunday.
Friday, June 17, 2011
Still at Last!
With the anchor down in the lagoon at Fakarava, Mistress is still for the first time since leaving San Francisco. It seems strange not having the boat moving - we are loving it!
Last 18 hours of passage saw lightest winds since San Francisco. Ended up motoring in glassy seas and scorching heat so were happy to dive over side in beaut clear water once we arrived.
Lads have already gone for a surf, we are enjoying the peace and quiet. Lots of other yachts here. Best news though is that the banana's are finally starting to yellow!
MC
Last 18 hours of passage saw lightest winds since San Francisco. Ended up motoring in glassy seas and scorching heat so were happy to dive over side in beaut clear water once we arrived.
Lads have already gone for a surf, we are enjoying the peace and quiet. Lots of other yachts here. Best news though is that the banana's are finally starting to yellow!
MC
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Passive Pacific
No guessing why this beautiful blue ocean is called the Pacific.. we have barely had 10 knots on a virtually flat ocean for the past 24 hours. Georgia Strait or the Hauraki Gulf look rough by comparison.
This morning had special treat setting full moon in the West and rising sun in the East within 15 minutes of each other. So cool.
Charlie broke fish drought yesterday afternoon landing a 2 metre sailfish! We had some for dinner last night. Not all crews favourite so balance went in the freezer. Very hot aboard today, 34 degrees below deck.
MC
This morning had special treat setting full moon in the West and rising sun in the East within 15 minutes of each other. So cool.
Charlie broke fish drought yesterday afternoon landing a 2 metre sailfish! We had some for dinner last night. Not all crews favourite so balance went in the freezer. Very hot aboard today, 34 degrees below deck.
MC
Tag & Release
Our fishing continues to struggle and freezer taking a hammering - yesterday caught and released two Skipjack. Crew are now pickey in their choice of tuna!
More exciting was hooking a bird, it managed to keep flying while Lloyd reeled it in and I extracted hook from his bill without getting attacked. It safely flew away.
Had company of dophins pod yesterday (estimate 50-100) for over 30 minutes. Played on bow wave and leapt tirelessly - great show!
Noon position S12.4, W142.05. Last 24 hours 198 miles. Banana's still green!
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
More exciting was hooking a bird, it managed to keep flying while Lloyd reeled it in and I extracted hook from his bill without getting attacked. It safely flew away.
Had company of dophins pod yesterday (estimate 50-100) for over 30 minutes. Played on bow wave and leapt tirelessly - great show!
Noon position S12.4, W142.05. Last 24 hours 198 miles. Banana's still green!
MC
View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map
Monday, June 13, 2011
Ice cream for Bananas
We departed Hakahetau Bay, Ua Pou Island, Marquesas this morning, next stop Fakarava Tuamotus. Lloyd and Charlie went ashore as we readied the boat and returned with a stalk of green bananas now ripening on Mistress stern radar post. In return for the bananas they bought 2 kids an ice cream at village store, not a bad trade!
ETA to Fakarava Tuamotus is three days. Great to be at sea again, currently reaching, full main and #3, average speed 8.5 knots. Lads are keen to crack out a 200 miler for 24 hour, should be easy if wind holds.
Two weeks in Marquesas was fantastic, crew now excited to see coral atolls and lads want surf! Lesley ads a lovely element to male crew and boys have cleaned up their act!
Mistress Crew
ETA to Fakarava Tuamotus is three days. Great to be at sea again, currently reaching, full main and #3, average speed 8.5 knots. Lads are keen to crack out a 200 miler for 24 hour, should be easy if wind holds.
Two weeks in Marquesas was fantastic, crew now excited to see coral atolls and lads want surf! Lesley ads a lovely element to male crew and boys have cleaned up their act!
Mistress Crew
Friday, June 10, 2011
The Remote Islands (Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva & Tahuata)
William of Hanaiapa
Warren attempting to climb
Then there were six boards
Sunset Fatu Hiva
Sunset at Hanaiapa
Omoa Fatu Hiva
Benui Falls
Lloyd the Warrior
Lloyd swinging
Ivaiva Tahuata
Mistress to Tahuata
Hanavave Fatu Hiva
Hanaiapa Grandma
Dolphins of Fatu Hiva
Charlie surfing Fatu Hiva
Private left hander
It’s now 11 days since we made landfall at Hiva Oa in the Marquesas. I am always amazed how the transition from days on end of ocean sailing slips seamlessly into a distant memory the very moment one gets to explore and discover a fascinating new world, especially one such as the Marquesas Islands.
These magical and yet seemingly mysterious islands are sometimes referred to as the most remote islands in the world due to their physical distance from any Continental landmass. It is perhaps one of the reasons that Thor Heyerdahl chose Fatu Hiva as the island where in the 1930’s he endeavored to live a subsistence life, turning his back on the world he knew in Europe. His social experiment was an incredible hardship, largely driven by the physical challenges of living on such a remote and seemingly hostile island. I recommend reading his book (Fatu Hiva) it is an amazing story.
After the formalities of clearing into French Polynesia the day of our arrival, we spent a second day in Taahuku doing the usual obligatory chores of laundry, topping up fuel, a few provisions and of course communicating with family and friends via landlines and faster speed broadband.
I always find it such a contrast that after not seeing another yacht or vessel for 18 days, we needed to squeeze into a marginally protected harbour with significant swell amongst another 20+ cruising yachts. To make matters worse, the rain seemingly fell non-stop from the minute we arrived and while certainly not cold, we were always damp. Hence after 48 hours we could not get the anchor up fast enough and head west around the island to the north (leeward) and hopefully sunny side of Hiva Oa.
The geography of the Marquesas Islands is stunning. Much like Kawai in the Hawaiian Islands, these volcanic islands have been heavily eroded over thousands of years by the ravages of wind and water. Trade wind borne seas having travelled thousands of miles smash relentlessly against sheer volcanic cliffs. Water laden clouds rise up thousands of feet on the windward mountain peaks, lashing the islands with seemingly continuous rain. Rivers of water and cascading waterfalls roar from the peaks back to the sea completing an endless cycle of erosion. The islands windward valleys are lush and bountiful in all types of tropical fruit and vegetation a striking contrast to the leeward sides that are dry and desolate as any continental desert.
The final brush stokes to complete the dramatic picture of these islands is unquestionably the soaring volcanic spires and peaks that defy gravity and somehow remain standing vertical when all around them has crumbled away. When viewed from sea and rolling in the backwash of Trade Wind swells these peaks leave one feeling powerless against the forces of nature and simply in awe of the landscape towering overhead.
Our first anchorage was in Hanaiapa Bay and the accompanying village on Hiva Oa’s north shore. What a contrast to Taahuku. The water was absolutely clear, on anchoring we were the only yacht, the sun was shinning and we for the first time we all felt we had truly arrived in the South Pacific. Even the young lads were excited, as this bay is well known for it’s surf breaks in the winter months. Unfortunately we were too early in the surf season, but it didn’t stop Lloyd and Charlie from waxing up their boards and going for a paddle…..the waves looked great…..only it’s size was a problem!
We explored the shoreline and village that is scattered up the lush valley floor meandering upwards towards the ever present towering volcanic peaks. We met an elderly Marquesan woman living on one of the few shore side homes. We did the internationally accepted conversation…..‘speaking English while she spoke French’, routine….This conversation always makes me laugh…..it is as though if each person says it often enough they truly believe that the other person will understand what they are saying……and of course in fact that is what usually happens. She was very gracious and wanted us to have a guide for our village tour so instructed her Grandson and his friend to do just that. Both these lads (probably 20 years old) without any reluctance or the slightest hint of disrespect to their elder became our village guides.
Our walk took in the amazing productivity of this land. Every property was incredibly well tended and tidy. No fences between houses, just well trimmed grass and flowering hedges and trees. Houses were simple in construction, mostly timber with tin roofs and big overhangs with open walls in many instances. Washing hung in the shelter of the roof eves and while we could hear voices most residents were likely busy in the shade of the homes. Every garden had the full variety of tropical fruit….grapefruit, mango, lemons, limes, bananas, breadfruit, and of course coconut palms towering overhead. These villagers live largely a subsistence lifestyle, working the sea and the land to provide for themselves. The only blight on what was a most picturesque landscape was the ever present satellite dish pointing skyward on the outside of virtually every home….
The most memorable impression from our brief visit was the politeness and respect that was shown by the villagers amongst each other. Our local guides wanted us to meet William, a local village personality who provides visiting yachties a bountiful array of fruit and vegetables in return for the signing of his ‘Yacht Club’ book. In trying to find William we went to two different properties before tracking him down. On the second property the young men quietly approached the house and from a considered distance and politely called out. It was not until they had confirmed that indeed William was there and that it was okay for them and us to approach that they encouraged us to go up to the home. The actions of these young lads highlighted that within this small island community there is a high value placed upon respecting the space and property of ones neighbors, something that is so often lost in our own modern urban environments.
Given that aboard Mistress were seven surfboards and two extremely keen and skilled young surfers, it is not surprising that our route through French Polynesia was going to be largely dictated by the ‘best waves’. Prior to leaving NZ Charlie spent hours on Google Earth, surf blogs and emailing those ‘in the know’ looking for where we could find the waves. These volcanic islands are surrounded by sheer cliffs, not ideal for generating surf waves. Fatu Hiva does however have one unique geological formation that Charlie discovered online purely by chance. On the South West corner of the island a huge chunk of a cliff face has collapsed into the Pacific creating a shallow shelf that approaches the vertical cliffs above. The result is a perfect left hand wave that would excite all surfers, but no more so than two lads who have been boat bound for weeks with only the quarter wave generated by Mistress’s hull to look at! As fortune would have it there is a marginal anchorage just 1 mile north of this beautiful wave off the village of Omoa where we dropped our anchor after a great day sail from Hiva Oa. The lads were in surf heaven and over a few days managed to get in plenty of waves. They were in constant awe of having such perfect waves and not another sole to have to share them with……
Our last anchorage on Fatu Hiva was Hanavave Bay (or the Bay of Virgins) that is described by some as the most dramatic anchorage in the world. This description is due to the striking volcanic pillars that rise above the bay creating a physical setting that would be hard to equal. We were entertained for hours watching the wild goats cling seemingly effortlessly the sheer vertical volcanic rock in search of vegetation that grows from the cliff faces. Our fascination was largely driven by waiting to see if one would fall……and of course they never did.
The main mission in Hanavave seemed to be to find Vai’ e’ enui Falls, the 300’ free drop waterfall that cascades into a refreshing swimming hole. Our first attempt to find the trail to this destination was met with dismal failure. After an hour of scrambling through dense tropical vegetation with Havaianas struggling for traction on steep mud laden slopes, we gave up and beat a hasty retreat. The following day armed with a rough drawn map by a local we successfully hiked to the Falls. Our reward was to be cooled by the gravity fueled torrent of water that cleaned both body and soul.
On our last night in Hanavave, we were treated with a rare view of the local villagers life. Song and dance is a mainstay within their culture and on this evening the entire village descended upon the waterfront volleyball courts and community hall for their weekly practice session. This was no South Pacific costumed tourist show but instead an entire community doing something they love and are passionate about. The girls seductive, rhythmic shaking of their hips blended with the foot pounding chest thumping warrior shouts of the men, all kept in perfect time by skinned drums and stick beaten hollowed logs. It was hypnotizing and we were cast under its spell for over an hour before we felt conspicuous by our gaze and quietly slipped back into our dinghy and rowed away in time to the beat of their drums.
Our sail northward to Tahuata yesterday was one out of the box. We didn’t start sailing till mid morning due to the lads wanting one last surf on their private break…..When we finally cleared the lee of Fatu Hiva we were rewarded with a 20 knot Easterly Trade wind that allowed Mistress to really stretch her legs. With Gennaker and full main drawing hard on a reach just aft of the beam, we blasted along at a steady 9 knots. This was champagne sailing at it’s very best and it was with considerable disappointment that the 40 mile passage ended as we sailed into the lee of Tahuata. We dropped anchor off an empty white sand, palm lined bay on the NW corner of the island that looked exactly what our imagined South Pacific paradise would be. Ashore the surging waves on the very purest sand was too hard to resist, and we pretended we were lone corks being washed seaward then shoreward wave after wave……
Tomorrow we return to Taahuku on Hiva Oa, time to restock on a few essentials pick up the balance of our laundry and most importantly to collect Lesley, Warrens wife who is joining us for whatever unfolds next on the Mistress Voyages…..
Warren attempting to climb
Then there were six boards
Sunset Fatu Hiva
Sunset at Hanaiapa
Omoa Fatu Hiva
Benui Falls
Lloyd the Warrior
Lloyd swinging
Ivaiva Tahuata
Mistress to Tahuata
Hanavave Fatu Hiva
Hanaiapa Grandma
Dolphins of Fatu Hiva
Charlie surfing Fatu Hiva
Private left hander
It’s now 11 days since we made landfall at Hiva Oa in the Marquesas. I am always amazed how the transition from days on end of ocean sailing slips seamlessly into a distant memory the very moment one gets to explore and discover a fascinating new world, especially one such as the Marquesas Islands.
These magical and yet seemingly mysterious islands are sometimes referred to as the most remote islands in the world due to their physical distance from any Continental landmass. It is perhaps one of the reasons that Thor Heyerdahl chose Fatu Hiva as the island where in the 1930’s he endeavored to live a subsistence life, turning his back on the world he knew in Europe. His social experiment was an incredible hardship, largely driven by the physical challenges of living on such a remote and seemingly hostile island. I recommend reading his book (Fatu Hiva) it is an amazing story.
After the formalities of clearing into French Polynesia the day of our arrival, we spent a second day in Taahuku doing the usual obligatory chores of laundry, topping up fuel, a few provisions and of course communicating with family and friends via landlines and faster speed broadband.
I always find it such a contrast that after not seeing another yacht or vessel for 18 days, we needed to squeeze into a marginally protected harbour with significant swell amongst another 20+ cruising yachts. To make matters worse, the rain seemingly fell non-stop from the minute we arrived and while certainly not cold, we were always damp. Hence after 48 hours we could not get the anchor up fast enough and head west around the island to the north (leeward) and hopefully sunny side of Hiva Oa.
The geography of the Marquesas Islands is stunning. Much like Kawai in the Hawaiian Islands, these volcanic islands have been heavily eroded over thousands of years by the ravages of wind and water. Trade wind borne seas having travelled thousands of miles smash relentlessly against sheer volcanic cliffs. Water laden clouds rise up thousands of feet on the windward mountain peaks, lashing the islands with seemingly continuous rain. Rivers of water and cascading waterfalls roar from the peaks back to the sea completing an endless cycle of erosion. The islands windward valleys are lush and bountiful in all types of tropical fruit and vegetation a striking contrast to the leeward sides that are dry and desolate as any continental desert.
The final brush stokes to complete the dramatic picture of these islands is unquestionably the soaring volcanic spires and peaks that defy gravity and somehow remain standing vertical when all around them has crumbled away. When viewed from sea and rolling in the backwash of Trade Wind swells these peaks leave one feeling powerless against the forces of nature and simply in awe of the landscape towering overhead.
Our first anchorage was in Hanaiapa Bay and the accompanying village on Hiva Oa’s north shore. What a contrast to Taahuku. The water was absolutely clear, on anchoring we were the only yacht, the sun was shinning and we for the first time we all felt we had truly arrived in the South Pacific. Even the young lads were excited, as this bay is well known for it’s surf breaks in the winter months. Unfortunately we were too early in the surf season, but it didn’t stop Lloyd and Charlie from waxing up their boards and going for a paddle…..the waves looked great…..only it’s size was a problem!
We explored the shoreline and village that is scattered up the lush valley floor meandering upwards towards the ever present towering volcanic peaks. We met an elderly Marquesan woman living on one of the few shore side homes. We did the internationally accepted conversation…..‘speaking English while she spoke French’, routine….This conversation always makes me laugh…..it is as though if each person says it often enough they truly believe that the other person will understand what they are saying……and of course in fact that is what usually happens. She was very gracious and wanted us to have a guide for our village tour so instructed her Grandson and his friend to do just that. Both these lads (probably 20 years old) without any reluctance or the slightest hint of disrespect to their elder became our village guides.
Our walk took in the amazing productivity of this land. Every property was incredibly well tended and tidy. No fences between houses, just well trimmed grass and flowering hedges and trees. Houses were simple in construction, mostly timber with tin roofs and big overhangs with open walls in many instances. Washing hung in the shelter of the roof eves and while we could hear voices most residents were likely busy in the shade of the homes. Every garden had the full variety of tropical fruit….grapefruit, mango, lemons, limes, bananas, breadfruit, and of course coconut palms towering overhead. These villagers live largely a subsistence lifestyle, working the sea and the land to provide for themselves. The only blight on what was a most picturesque landscape was the ever present satellite dish pointing skyward on the outside of virtually every home….
The most memorable impression from our brief visit was the politeness and respect that was shown by the villagers amongst each other. Our local guides wanted us to meet William, a local village personality who provides visiting yachties a bountiful array of fruit and vegetables in return for the signing of his ‘Yacht Club’ book. In trying to find William we went to two different properties before tracking him down. On the second property the young men quietly approached the house and from a considered distance and politely called out. It was not until they had confirmed that indeed William was there and that it was okay for them and us to approach that they encouraged us to go up to the home. The actions of these young lads highlighted that within this small island community there is a high value placed upon respecting the space and property of ones neighbors, something that is so often lost in our own modern urban environments.
Given that aboard Mistress were seven surfboards and two extremely keen and skilled young surfers, it is not surprising that our route through French Polynesia was going to be largely dictated by the ‘best waves’. Prior to leaving NZ Charlie spent hours on Google Earth, surf blogs and emailing those ‘in the know’ looking for where we could find the waves. These volcanic islands are surrounded by sheer cliffs, not ideal for generating surf waves. Fatu Hiva does however have one unique geological formation that Charlie discovered online purely by chance. On the South West corner of the island a huge chunk of a cliff face has collapsed into the Pacific creating a shallow shelf that approaches the vertical cliffs above. The result is a perfect left hand wave that would excite all surfers, but no more so than two lads who have been boat bound for weeks with only the quarter wave generated by Mistress’s hull to look at! As fortune would have it there is a marginal anchorage just 1 mile north of this beautiful wave off the village of Omoa where we dropped our anchor after a great day sail from Hiva Oa. The lads were in surf heaven and over a few days managed to get in plenty of waves. They were in constant awe of having such perfect waves and not another sole to have to share them with……
Our last anchorage on Fatu Hiva was Hanavave Bay (or the Bay of Virgins) that is described by some as the most dramatic anchorage in the world. This description is due to the striking volcanic pillars that rise above the bay creating a physical setting that would be hard to equal. We were entertained for hours watching the wild goats cling seemingly effortlessly the sheer vertical volcanic rock in search of vegetation that grows from the cliff faces. Our fascination was largely driven by waiting to see if one would fall……and of course they never did.
The main mission in Hanavave seemed to be to find Vai’ e’ enui Falls, the 300’ free drop waterfall that cascades into a refreshing swimming hole. Our first attempt to find the trail to this destination was met with dismal failure. After an hour of scrambling through dense tropical vegetation with Havaianas struggling for traction on steep mud laden slopes, we gave up and beat a hasty retreat. The following day armed with a rough drawn map by a local we successfully hiked to the Falls. Our reward was to be cooled by the gravity fueled torrent of water that cleaned both body and soul.
On our last night in Hanavave, we were treated with a rare view of the local villagers life. Song and dance is a mainstay within their culture and on this evening the entire village descended upon the waterfront volleyball courts and community hall for their weekly practice session. This was no South Pacific costumed tourist show but instead an entire community doing something they love and are passionate about. The girls seductive, rhythmic shaking of their hips blended with the foot pounding chest thumping warrior shouts of the men, all kept in perfect time by skinned drums and stick beaten hollowed logs. It was hypnotizing and we were cast under its spell for over an hour before we felt conspicuous by our gaze and quietly slipped back into our dinghy and rowed away in time to the beat of their drums.
Our sail northward to Tahuata yesterday was one out of the box. We didn’t start sailing till mid morning due to the lads wanting one last surf on their private break…..When we finally cleared the lee of Fatu Hiva we were rewarded with a 20 knot Easterly Trade wind that allowed Mistress to really stretch her legs. With Gennaker and full main drawing hard on a reach just aft of the beam, we blasted along at a steady 9 knots. This was champagne sailing at it’s very best and it was with considerable disappointment that the 40 mile passage ended as we sailed into the lee of Tahuata. We dropped anchor off an empty white sand, palm lined bay on the NW corner of the island that looked exactly what our imagined South Pacific paradise would be. Ashore the surging waves on the very purest sand was too hard to resist, and we pretended we were lone corks being washed seaward then shoreward wave after wave……
Tomorrow we return to Taahuku on Hiva Oa, time to restock on a few essentials pick up the balance of our laundry and most importantly to collect Lesley, Warrens wife who is joining us for whatever unfolds next on the Mistress Voyages…..
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