Goodbye Marquesas

Weaving Headpiece - Hapatoni

Warren & Lesley in Hapatoni

Spires over Hakahetau Bay

Mistress Anchored at Hana Tefau

MC (& green bananas) leaving Ua Pou

Landfall at Ua Pou

Hapatoni Warrior

Hapatoni Kids

Hapatoni Ancient Pathway


Our final few days in the Marquesas provided us with some interesting insights into both the modern and ancient lives of these lovely people.

A night of straining on the anchor chain in Tahuata’s Hana Moe Noa Bay with wind gusts of up to 30 knots barreling down the island’s leeward slopes, made it a simple decision to bail out after daylight and work our way south down the coast. We managed to find shelter under the towering cliffs of Hana Tefau anchoring only 100 metres from the rock-strewn shore. The bay was home to a pod of incredibly small dolphins who despite joining in the water, showed little interest in our approach.

The bay adjoining to the south is called Hapatoni, a small sweeping rocky bay that is fringed by an ancient Marquesan village whose current 100 inhabitants live amongst the remnants and ruins of impressive volcanic stonework - paths, walls and foundations, all constructed by their forefathers. With drizzling rain as our companion we meandered along an ancient pathway, curious by its design, wide enough for modern cars and yet made at a time when bare feet were the only transport. Stonewalls bordering the pathway doubled as both seawall and retaining walls for the village homes. Huge gnarly trees hundreds of years old, flanked the pathway while younger trees sprouted between them, seemingly adolescents amongst their respected elders. An impressive stone walled church built to withstand natures strongest hurricane, reinforced the missionary influence amongst these islands and the ongoing role the Church plays in the residents daily lives. The village was quiet with residents busy inside their homes, weaving and carving, traditions of their culture past, now readying to trade for much needed cash with passengers from the ‘Aranui’, the coastal freighter/passenger ship that ply’s these islands. As we made our way back to our anchored dinghy young children emerged running rings around us in the mud, laughing at our attempts at French while eager to impress us with their limited English. Our glimpse through this window of village life, both current and past, served as a gentle reminder of how very different our home and work lives are in comparison. While we sail away to explore new wonders and islands eventually returning to the comfort and safety of our homes, they continue to do exactly what they have done for hundreds of years, live in balance with the land and the sea at the mercy of the whims of nature be it bountiful or destructive.

With the atolls of the Tuamotus beckoning us over the southwest horizon, we decided to make the island of Ua Pou our last Marquesan stop. First light after an overnight sail brought the magnificent soaring spires of the island into view. These gravity defying vertical basaltic structures must be one of the most striking geological formations on the planet. Regrettably not once during our brief visit did we manage to see all of the spires cloud free; however, the enticement of such a view keeps one constantly gazing skyward towards the shrouded peaks.

We dropped anchored in the protection of Hakahetau Bay on the northwest corner of the island in the company of a few other yachts. A visit by two waterborne Gendarmes resulted in the necessity for us to complete some additional paperwork and a visit to their offices at Hakahau Bay, a few miles around the northern coast. After spending a couple of hours on another unsuccessful expedition looking for a local waterfall we headed north to Hakahau, the capital of the island.

Our visit in Hakahau was incredibly brief, but long enough to witness a very special day. Leaving Millsy and Lloyd aboard on anchor watch, Charlie paddled off to he head of the bay to join the local lads for a surf, while Warren, Lesley and I rowed towards a grey sandy beach only 100 meters from Mistress’s stern. Let me try and paint the picture that greeted us.

Our ears were filled with the sound of children’s laughter as they launched seaward from the seemingly dizzy heights of the concrete pier. A young family relaxing in the sand, enjoying the shade of a flowering vibrant red hibiscus, waved and smiled at our clumsy ‘bonjour’. We clambered over the seawall onto the beachside road, completely devoid of any moving vehicle or person. As we ambled along the waterfront we gazed down into the local canoe club, a thatched pole structure, built upon the sand. Voices singing in unison to the strum of guitars floated from the shade of the thatch. Parents were relaxing around tables enjoying their favorite Hinano while the kids played in the water. Conscious of not intruding we didn’t linger, but in someway were envious of their seemingly carefree afternoon. A mattress lying in the back of a Toyota Hilux parked on the sand served as a portable cushion for another family who also smiled at our hello. Looking along the bay we could see a dozen local surfers doing what surfers do best - happily waiting for the next perfect wave. Our path took us left away from the beach and we passed a low-lying house virtually hidden by the shade of a fragrant flowering tropical garden. The mouthwatering smell of their barbeque and laughter of loving family and friends drifted our way……….

And so it carried on. Everywhere we looked we were seemingly greeted with the very same sight, that of family and friends doing what they should be doing, simply relaxing and enjoying each other and the day. And what day was it? Not a religious holiday, nor a national holiday…..no it was a simply a day that occurs on a regular basis, in fact it is so popular it happens once a week and yet once again in our fast moving commercial world we seem to forget all about this day and why it should be so special….…it was of course Sunday.

Still at Last!

With the anchor down in the lagoon at Fakarava, Mistress is still for the first time since leaving San Francisco. It seems strange not having the boat moving - we are loving it!

Last 18 hours of passage saw lightest winds since San Francisco. Ended up motoring in glassy seas and scorching heat so were happy to dive over side in beaut clear water once we arrived.

Lads have already gone for a surf, we are enjoying the peace and quiet. Lots of other yachts here. Best news though is that the banana's are finally starting to yellow!

MC

Passive Pacific

No guessing why this beautiful blue ocean is called the Pacific.. we have barely had 10 knots on a virtually flat ocean for the past 24 hours. Georgia Strait or the Hauraki Gulf look rough by comparison.

This morning had special treat setting full moon in the West and rising sun in the East within 15 minutes of each other. So cool.

Charlie broke fish drought yesterday afternoon landing a 2 metre sailfish! We had some for dinner last night. Not all crews favourite so balance went in the freezer. Very hot aboard today, 34 degrees below deck.

MC

Tag & Release

Our fishing continues to struggle and freezer taking a hammering - yesterday caught and released two Skipjack. Crew are now pickey in their choice of tuna!

More exciting was hooking a bird, it managed to keep flying while Lloyd reeled it in and I extracted hook from his bill without getting attacked. It safely flew away.

Had company of dophins pod yesterday (estimate 50-100) for over 30 minutes. Played on bow wave and leapt tirelessly - great show!

Noon position S12.4, W142.05. Last 24 hours 198 miles. Banana's still green!

MC


View Come Sail with Mistress in a larger map

Ice cream for Bananas

We departed Hakahetau Bay, Ua Pou Island, Marquesas this morning, next stop Fakarava Tuamotus. Lloyd and Charlie went ashore as we readied the boat and returned with a stalk of green bananas now ripening on Mistress stern radar post. In return for the bananas they bought 2 kids an ice cream at village store, not a bad trade!

ETA to Fakarava Tuamotus is three days. Great to be at sea again, currently reaching, full main and #3, average speed 8.5 knots. Lads are keen to crack out a 200 miler for 24 hour, should be easy if wind holds.

Two weeks in Marquesas was fantastic, crew now excited to see coral atolls and lads want surf! Lesley ads a lovely element to male crew and boys have cleaned up their act!

Mistress Crew

The Remote Islands (Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva & Tahuata)

William of Hanaiapa

Warren attempting to climb

Then there were six boards

Sunset Fatu Hiva

Sunset at Hanaiapa

Omoa Fatu Hiva

Benui Falls

Lloyd the Warrior

Lloyd swinging

Ivaiva Tahuata

Mistress to Tahuata

Hanavave Fatu Hiva

Hanaiapa Grandma

Dolphins of Fatu Hiva

Charlie surfing Fatu Hiva

Private left hander


It’s now 11 days since we made landfall at Hiva Oa in the Marquesas. I am always amazed how the transition from days on end of ocean sailing slips seamlessly into a distant memory the very moment one gets to explore and discover a fascinating new world, especially one such as the Marquesas Islands.

These magical and yet seemingly mysterious islands are sometimes referred to as the most remote islands in the world due to their physical distance from any Continental landmass. It is perhaps one of the reasons that Thor Heyerdahl chose Fatu Hiva as the island where in the 1930’s he endeavored to live a subsistence life, turning his back on the world he knew in Europe. His social experiment was an incredible hardship, largely driven by the physical challenges of living on such a remote and seemingly hostile island. I recommend reading his book (Fatu Hiva) it is an amazing story.

After the formalities of clearing into French Polynesia the day of our arrival, we spent a second day in Taahuku doing the usual obligatory chores of laundry, topping up fuel, a few provisions and of course communicating with family and friends via landlines and faster speed broadband.

I always find it such a contrast that after not seeing another yacht or vessel for 18 days, we needed to squeeze into a marginally protected harbour with significant swell amongst another 20+ cruising yachts. To make matters worse, the rain seemingly fell non-stop from the minute we arrived and while certainly not cold, we were always damp. Hence after 48 hours we could not get the anchor up fast enough and head west around the island to the north (leeward) and hopefully sunny side of Hiva Oa.

The geography of the Marquesas Islands is stunning. Much like Kawai in the Hawaiian Islands, these volcanic islands have been heavily eroded over thousands of years by the ravages of wind and water. Trade wind borne seas having travelled thousands of miles smash relentlessly against sheer volcanic cliffs. Water laden clouds rise up thousands of feet on the windward mountain peaks, lashing the islands with seemingly continuous rain. Rivers of water and cascading waterfalls roar from the peaks back to the sea completing an endless cycle of erosion. The islands windward valleys are lush and bountiful in all types of tropical fruit and vegetation a striking contrast to the leeward sides that are dry and desolate as any continental desert.

The final brush stokes to complete the dramatic picture of these islands is unquestionably the soaring volcanic spires and peaks that defy gravity and somehow remain standing vertical when all around them has crumbled away. When viewed from sea and rolling in the backwash of Trade Wind swells these peaks leave one feeling powerless against the forces of nature and simply in awe of the landscape towering overhead.

Our first anchorage was in Hanaiapa Bay and the accompanying village on Hiva Oa’s north shore. What a contrast to Taahuku. The water was absolutely clear, on anchoring we were the only yacht, the sun was shinning and we for the first time we all felt we had truly arrived in the South Pacific. Even the young lads were excited, as this bay is well known for it’s surf breaks in the winter months. Unfortunately we were too early in the surf season, but it didn’t stop Lloyd and Charlie from waxing up their boards and going for a paddle…..the waves looked great…..only it’s size was a problem!

We explored the shoreline and village that is scattered up the lush valley floor meandering upwards towards the ever present towering volcanic peaks. We met an elderly Marquesan woman living on one of the few shore side homes. We did the internationally accepted conversation…..‘speaking English while she spoke French’, routine….This conversation always makes me laugh…..it is as though if each person says it often enough they truly believe that the other person will understand what they are saying……and of course in fact that is what usually happens. She was very gracious and wanted us to have a guide for our village tour so instructed her Grandson and his friend to do just that. Both these lads (probably 20 years old) without any reluctance or the slightest hint of disrespect to their elder became our village guides.

Our walk took in the amazing productivity of this land. Every property was incredibly well tended and tidy. No fences between houses, just well trimmed grass and flowering hedges and trees. Houses were simple in construction, mostly timber with tin roofs and big overhangs with open walls in many instances. Washing hung in the shelter of the roof eves and while we could hear voices most residents were likely busy in the shade of the homes. Every garden had the full variety of tropical fruit….grapefruit, mango, lemons, limes, bananas, breadfruit, and of course coconut palms towering overhead. These villagers live largely a subsistence lifestyle, working the sea and the land to provide for themselves. The only blight on what was a most picturesque landscape was the ever present satellite dish pointing skyward on the outside of virtually every home….

The most memorable impression from our brief visit was the politeness and respect that was shown by the villagers amongst each other. Our local guides wanted us to meet William, a local village personality who provides visiting yachties a bountiful array of fruit and vegetables in return for the signing of his ‘Yacht Club’ book. In trying to find William we went to two different properties before tracking him down. On the second property the young men quietly approached the house and from a considered distance and politely called out. It was not until they had confirmed that indeed William was there and that it was okay for them and us to approach that they encouraged us to go up to the home. The actions of these young lads highlighted that within this small island community there is a high value placed upon respecting the space and property of ones neighbors, something that is so often lost in our own modern urban environments.

Given that aboard Mistress were seven surfboards and two extremely keen and skilled young surfers, it is not surprising that our route through French Polynesia was going to be largely dictated by the ‘best waves’. Prior to leaving NZ Charlie spent hours on Google Earth, surf blogs and emailing those ‘in the know’ looking for where we could find the waves. These volcanic islands are surrounded by sheer cliffs, not ideal for generating surf waves. Fatu Hiva does however have one unique geological formation that Charlie discovered online purely by chance. On the South West corner of the island a huge chunk of a cliff face has collapsed into the Pacific creating a shallow shelf that approaches the vertical cliffs above. The result is a perfect left hand wave that would excite all surfers, but no more so than two lads who have been boat bound for weeks with only the quarter wave generated by Mistress’s hull to look at! As fortune would have it there is a marginal anchorage just 1 mile north of this beautiful wave off the village of Omoa where we dropped our anchor after a great day sail from Hiva Oa. The lads were in surf heaven and over a few days managed to get in plenty of waves. They were in constant awe of having such perfect waves and not another sole to have to share them with……

Our last anchorage on Fatu Hiva was Hanavave Bay (or the Bay of Virgins) that is described by some as the most dramatic anchorage in the world. This description is due to the striking volcanic pillars that rise above the bay creating a physical setting that would be hard to equal. We were entertained for hours watching the wild goats cling seemingly effortlessly the sheer vertical volcanic rock in search of vegetation that grows from the cliff faces. Our fascination was largely driven by waiting to see if one would fall……and of course they never did.

The main mission in Hanavave seemed to be to find Vai’ e’ enui Falls, the 300’ free drop waterfall that cascades into a refreshing swimming hole. Our first attempt to find the trail to this destination was met with dismal failure. After an hour of scrambling through dense tropical vegetation with Havaianas struggling for traction on steep mud laden slopes, we gave up and beat a hasty retreat. The following day armed with a rough drawn map by a local we successfully hiked to the Falls. Our reward was to be cooled by the gravity fueled torrent of water that cleaned both body and soul.

On our last night in Hanavave, we were treated with a rare view of the local villagers life. Song and dance is a mainstay within their culture and on this evening the entire village descended upon the waterfront volleyball courts and community hall for their weekly practice session. This was no South Pacific costumed tourist show but instead an entire community doing something they love and are passionate about. The girls seductive, rhythmic shaking of their hips blended with the foot pounding chest thumping warrior shouts of the men, all kept in perfect time by skinned drums and stick beaten hollowed logs. It was hypnotizing and we were cast under its spell for over an hour before we felt conspicuous by our gaze and quietly slipped back into our dinghy and rowed away in time to the beat of their drums.

Our sail northward to Tahuata yesterday was one out of the box. We didn’t start sailing till mid morning due to the lads wanting one last surf on their private break…..When we finally cleared the lee of Fatu Hiva we were rewarded with a 20 knot Easterly Trade wind that allowed Mistress to really stretch her legs. With Gennaker and full main drawing hard on a reach just aft of the beam, we blasted along at a steady 9 knots. This was champagne sailing at it’s very best and it was with considerable disappointment that the 40 mile passage ended as we sailed into the lee of Tahuata. We dropped anchor off an empty white sand, palm lined bay on the NW corner of the island that looked exactly what our imagined South Pacific paradise would be. Ashore the surging waves on the very purest sand was too hard to resist, and we pretended we were lone corks being washed seaward then shoreward wave after wave……

Tomorrow we return to Taahuku on Hiva Oa, time to restock on a few essentials pick up the balance of our laundry and most importantly to collect Lesley, Warrens wife who is joining us for whatever unfolds next on the Mistress Voyages…..

Mistress Trailer

Reflections of a Passage (Skippers Perspective)

As Mistress powers effortlessly past the cloud shrouded rugged volcanic peaks of Hiva Oa in the darkness of a night sky, standing my last watch alone of this passage from San Francisco seems appropriately timed to reflect back on the last 18 days at sea.

When I began contemplating getting another offshore yacht a few years ago, I spent considerable time thinking about what type of cruising I wanted to do. I was not interested in sailing around the world or seeking high latitude hardship adventures. Instead I decided that the focus should be all about sharing the joy of cruising under sail and the new discoveries and wonders that this brings with those who are most important in my life; family and friends and my partner.

The purchase of Mistress, a Swan 53 lying in San Diego in Sept 2009 was an important milestone towards fulfilling my latest sailing quest. Having spent 2 years of my life aboard a Swan 65 in the early 1980’s, I was well acquainted with the pedigree, strength and performance of Swan yachts and as time has demonstrated, Mistress possess all these same qualities.

September 2009 saw the initial shakedown of getting Mistress north from San Diego to Vancouver, the first and somewhat taxing passage against prevailing winds and waves. Two teams of friends and family capably assisted (crew change in San Francisco) and it was considerable relief to have Mistress safely tucked up for a Canadian winter in Sidney, B.C.

Last summer a two month trip north to Alaska up the inside passage and then returning via the Haida Gwaii’s and Vancouver Island’s West coast proved to be an excellent test of all Mistress’s cruising gear and a list of what needed to be undertaken over the past Canadian winter in readiness for the South Pacific. The highlight of last summer’s northern sail was having 11 different friends and family (including my 78 year old Mother) with me on different legs to share in the adventure, proving to me that my latest sailing dream had indeed turned into reality.

Now as I look back over the past 18 days and some 3000 nautical miles from San Francisco the highlight’s of this leg are many and yet all so different. Without a doubt the friendship and comradeship of the Mistress crew tops the list. The mix of age and experience blended with youth and enthusiasm proved to be a winning combination. It is a delight as Skipper to have the multitude of shipboard duties and maintenance undertaken by the likes of Warren and Millsy. No need to ask, they simply know what needs to be done and get into it. Having my son Lloyd aboard is extra special, for as a parent it is not often in today’s busy world that you and a child can remove yourself from all the distractions that life brings and be able to laugh, talk, reflect and enjoy each other without outside pressures and influences. Passage life provides this in spades.

For myself the blending of days and nights and the simplicity of passage life is another highlight. Life purely revolves around sailing Mistress; navigating, repairs, preparing meals, cleaning, relaxing and sleeping. There is no start and no stop to the day. The day of the week or the date is not relevant. Time is dictated by the sun, the moon, your next watch and of course how many miles have slipped under Mistress’s keel! The world beyond the horizon looses definition and seems for this so very brief magical 18 days, of secondary concern.

With plenty of time on our side, the sharing of life stories, future aspirations and reflections and commentary on our world got plenty of airtime. Our favorite time of the day to enjoy such conversation inevitably revolves around Mistress Happy Hour (usually 1700, but we have been know to change time zones to get it earlier) With the glow of late afternoon sun, and easy sailing and enjoying a refreshing beverage, these are indeed special passage memories.

Crossing the Equator was another memorable aspect of this passage. For our new “shellbacks” it was a bit of fun and frivolity and possibly another ‘Bucket List’ box ticked. For myself and hopefully Lloyd it was a little extra special as we took a moment to scatter some of my late fathers ashes over Mistress’s leeward side to be free to flow with the wind and currents. It was my father who introduced me to sailing as a child and who through so much of my life on and off the water, was an inspiration and a huge supporter of my life endeavors. He sailed some 80,000 offshore miles in his lifetime including crossing the Equator under sail four times, so now some of his ashes are truly resting in his wake.

While our passage to the Marquesas was blessed with great winds and weather, it does not mean that it was all smooth sailing. We had the usual rigors that offshore sailing brings, cold wet sail changes, gear breakages, difficult conditions for sleep, cooking and even the simplest of tasks above and below decks. We pushed the boat fairly hard as Mistress was designed to be sailed as such, but we balanced this desire for speed with wanting to arrive safely. For the two young lads, after a week of such passage conditions and they were noticeably checking the charts and GPS to calculate how long to go….while the three older hands reveled in the moment and rued that it was a shame it was ending so soon. Offshore sailing is not easy at the best of times, however like so many things in life if it were easy we probably wouldn’t do it…….

Landfalls after a prolonged ocean passage are always special. After days at sea the anticipation of seeing land and the wonders awaiting discovery become the focus of attention for all aboard. Before sighting land typically one sees telltale signs that we are getting close. Increased bird life, coconut husks floating on the ocean waves and a change of cloud formation on the forward horizon. All eyes are regularly scanning ahead wanting to be the first to call ‘Land Ho’. Having approached Hiva Oa under moonless night sky, I cherish the sense of fulfillment of watching the island’s outline emerge from the darkness. I will be calling the rest of the crew in a few moments but simply enjoy taking a moment to bask in the accomplishment of what Mistress and her crew have achieved through successfully managing another safe landfall.

Mistress’s wheel pulls at my arms for one of the last times of the passage. I feel the power of the boat as she loads up and shoulders into the SE wind and cresting swell. I easily pull the helm to leeward and the boat like a thoroughbred race horse responds with a slicing of the bow through the wave and a roaring slide down the back of the swell. The leeward rail is buried in foam and cascading water roars the length of the deck before flowing back into the ocean. I can feel all 25 Ton of Mistress surf deeply into the ocean that suspends her, shake herself free and then gather herself once again under straining sail and rig and gladly power into the next oncoming swell. I glance at brightening Eastern sky, the salt and wind stinging my face and laugh with joy at the exhilaration of being alive and remind myself once again ocean sailing is exactly like life….it is the journey that counts more than the destination…….