As Mistress powers effortlessly past the cloud shrouded rugged volcanic peaks of Hiva Oa in the darkness of a night sky, standing my last watch alone of this passage from San Francisco seems appropriately timed to reflect back on the last 18 days at sea.
When I began contemplating getting another offshore yacht a few years ago, I spent considerable time thinking about what type of cruising I wanted to do. I was not interested in sailing around the world or seeking high latitude hardship adventures. Instead I decided that the focus should be all about sharing the joy of cruising under sail and the new discoveries and wonders that this brings with those who are most important in my life; family and friends and my partner.
The purchase of Mistress, a Swan 53 lying in San Diego in Sept 2009 was an important milestone towards fulfilling my latest sailing quest. Having spent 2 years of my life aboard a Swan 65 in the early 1980’s, I was well acquainted with the pedigree, strength and performance of Swan yachts and as time has demonstrated, Mistress possess all these same qualities.
September 2009 saw the initial shakedown of getting Mistress north from San Diego to Vancouver, the first and somewhat taxing passage against prevailing winds and waves. Two teams of friends and family capably assisted (crew change in San Francisco) and it was considerable relief to have Mistress safely tucked up for a Canadian winter in Sidney, B.C.
Last summer a two month trip north to Alaska up the inside passage and then returning via the Haida Gwaii’s and Vancouver Island’s West coast proved to be an excellent test of all Mistress’s cruising gear and a list of what needed to be undertaken over the past Canadian winter in readiness for the South Pacific. The highlight of last summer’s northern sail was having 11 different friends and family (including my 78 year old Mother) with me on different legs to share in the adventure, proving to me that my latest sailing dream had indeed turned into reality.
Now as I look back over the past 18 days and some 3000 nautical miles from San Francisco the highlight’s of this leg are many and yet all so different. Without a doubt the friendship and comradeship of the Mistress crew tops the list. The mix of age and experience blended with youth and enthusiasm proved to be a winning combination. It is a delight as Skipper to have the multitude of shipboard duties and maintenance undertaken by the likes of Warren and Millsy. No need to ask, they simply know what needs to be done and get into it. Having my son Lloyd aboard is extra special, for as a parent it is not often in today’s busy world that you and a child can remove yourself from all the distractions that life brings and be able to laugh, talk, reflect and enjoy each other without outside pressures and influences. Passage life provides this in spades.
For myself the blending of days and nights and the simplicity of passage life is another highlight. Life purely revolves around sailing Mistress; navigating, repairs, preparing meals, cleaning, relaxing and sleeping. There is no start and no stop to the day. The day of the week or the date is not relevant. Time is dictated by the sun, the moon, your next watch and of course how many miles have slipped under Mistress’s keel! The world beyond the horizon looses definition and seems for this so very brief magical 18 days, of secondary concern.
With plenty of time on our side, the sharing of life stories, future aspirations and reflections and commentary on our world got plenty of airtime. Our favorite time of the day to enjoy such conversation inevitably revolves around Mistress Happy Hour (usually 1700, but we have been know to change time zones to get it earlier) With the glow of late afternoon sun, and easy sailing and enjoying a refreshing beverage, these are indeed special passage memories.
Crossing the Equator was another memorable aspect of this passage. For our new “shellbacks” it was a bit of fun and frivolity and possibly another ‘Bucket List’ box ticked. For myself and hopefully Lloyd it was a little extra special as we took a moment to scatter some of my late fathers ashes over Mistress’s leeward side to be free to flow with the wind and currents. It was my father who introduced me to sailing as a child and who through so much of my life on and off the water, was an inspiration and a huge supporter of my life endeavors. He sailed some 80,000 offshore miles in his lifetime including crossing the Equator under sail four times, so now some of his ashes are truly resting in his wake.
While our passage to the Marquesas was blessed with great winds and weather, it does not mean that it was all smooth sailing. We had the usual rigors that offshore sailing brings, cold wet sail changes, gear breakages, difficult conditions for sleep, cooking and even the simplest of tasks above and below decks. We pushed the boat fairly hard as Mistress was designed to be sailed as such, but we balanced this desire for speed with wanting to arrive safely. For the two young lads, after a week of such passage conditions and they were noticeably checking the charts and GPS to calculate how long to go….while the three older hands reveled in the moment and rued that it was a shame it was ending so soon. Offshore sailing is not easy at the best of times, however like so many things in life if it were easy we probably wouldn’t do it…….
Landfalls after a prolonged ocean passage are always special. After days at sea the anticipation of seeing land and the wonders awaiting discovery become the focus of attention for all aboard. Before sighting land typically one sees telltale signs that we are getting close. Increased bird life, coconut husks floating on the ocean waves and a change of cloud formation on the forward horizon. All eyes are regularly scanning ahead wanting to be the first to call ‘Land Ho’. Having approached Hiva Oa under moonless night sky, I cherish the sense of fulfillment of watching the island’s outline emerge from the darkness. I will be calling the rest of the crew in a few moments but simply enjoy taking a moment to bask in the accomplishment of what Mistress and her crew have achieved through successfully managing another safe landfall.
Mistress’s wheel pulls at my arms for one of the last times of the passage. I feel the power of the boat as she loads up and shoulders into the SE wind and cresting swell. I easily pull the helm to leeward and the boat like a thoroughbred race horse responds with a slicing of the bow through the wave and a roaring slide down the back of the swell. The leeward rail is buried in foam and cascading water roars the length of the deck before flowing back into the ocean. I can feel all 25 Ton of Mistress surf deeply into the ocean that suspends her, shake herself free and then gather herself once again under straining sail and rig and gladly power into the next oncoming swell. I glance at brightening Eastern sky, the salt and wind stinging my face and laugh with joy at the exhilaration of being alive and remind myself once again ocean sailing is exactly like life….it is the journey that counts more than the destination…….
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